I haven't been on here in a while, but I figured I'd throw it up here anyway.

115,xxx miles
6spd MT
Carbon black exterior. Dove interior
Harmon Kardon sound
Bi-Xenon lights
Linea Corse Dyna 19" rims
General Exclaim UHP 245f 275r (95%)
Bilstein pss10 coilovers
Dinan shortshifter
Smoked corners and markers
LED tail lights
Painted reflectors
Ipod adapter
Stock rims and suspension also included

$18,500 obo

Sorry for the poor cellphone camera pictures. I'll be taking some good ones shortly

So unfortunately one day I decided to get my owner's manual out of my glovebox and I opended the glovebox slowly to only hear a click and my handle sorta gave way and now for the past few months I have velcro-ing my glove box shut...now that I am out of velcro I want another way to shut this stupid glovebox/fix it. Is there any girl-friendly, simple way of fixing it without spending a fortune? I looked at VW forum, and I just don't understand what they are trying to tell me. mehhh. Stupid Germans make everything so damn complicated. My dad recommended I go dumpster diving....who wants to come with?!

All you guys looking to drag an AR into the woods next year and stack your deer neck high my 6.5 Grendel! Ill have to count it all up for you but the round count is under 200 for those that care. I also have bore snakes, brushes, mags, etc for the 6.5.

Its a very accurate rifle more accurate than I can shoot. Tell your friends and family... i need this GONE!

Upper:
Cardinal Forge Upper Receiver
Alexander Arms 18 inch Hoplite Barrel
Alexander Arms bolt
Double Star BCA
Midwest Industries SS15 (yes 15 inch) hand guard
PRI adjustable low profile gas block
VLTOR 6.5 flash hider
Big Latch charge handle

Lower:
DPMS lower receiver
RRA lower parts kit
RRA match trigger
RRA 6 position stock/tube
YHM take down pins
KNS Mod2 anti rotation pins
LaRue Tactical Buffer Spring
Spikes Tactical ST-2 buffer
RRA/Hogue grip
Magpul trigger guard
Magpul ASAP sling mount

Ammo:
+200 rounds of Wolf 120gr MPT
+20 rounds of Wolf 123 Soft Point
140 Wolf brass

My asking price is $1700 for the rifle, brass, ammo, scope, LT 104 mount, bore snake, brushes, etc and its firm

This is for all the BMW haters out there... something I've noticed from my 2 E36 328i/is. When I'm in a lot of traffic, or short stop and go situations, the sound of the engine changes drastically. The fan noise is extremely loud; sounds like an old truck or a Jeep Cherokee. It also feels more sluggish. After speed picks up for a while, it goes away. Can I expect this all summer in the heat, and when I'm in traffic? What's the cause?

My buddy has a 2004 WRX that it is completely stock AFAIK, and I think has 80k-ish miles on it. He's talking like the dealer is wanting to give him 8100 for that. Doesnt that seem really low? I did a brief scan of reston auto trader and CL, seems like there are a ton of STi out there for sale, a lot fewer wrx

So as some of you know i have been contemplating the departure of my GSX to purchase something cheaper to track/autoX and pay off almost all if not all of my debt. So im going to post this up and see what happens.

1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
5spd
104,2XX
Rare Full Black leather interior
Asking $8000 MM Price $7000Title in hand.
No joy rides.

Email JGALLAMORE at G mail dot com

When I first bought it.


What is done to the car:

Exhaust:
Extreme 3" downpipe, 3" testpipe, Custom mandrel bent catback with Magnaflow muffler
Ported 2g exhaust manifold
Ported evo3 o2 housing

Turbo:
Ported Forced Performance evo316g

Fuel:
Walbro 255hp
FIC 650 injectors
Aeromotive AFPR

Intake:
geddy rs bov.
SBR/Kinetic FMIC short route SS piping
Dejon tool intake pipe
Perrin Air Filter/Custom intake box
EGR blockoff plate
1g throttlebody, with port matched intake manifold.

Electronics/Tuning:
DSMlink V3 Lite
Hallman MBC
PLX M300 Wideband
Autometer boost
Autometer egt
NGK Plug Wires
Kicker Speakers.
Civic battery.

Suspension/wheels/brakes:
Front Strut Tower Brace
Rear Strut Tower Brace
Tokico Illumna struts with eibach prokit springs.
17x8 Rota Boosts in Gunmetal no chips or rash
245/40/17 Hankook Ventus V12 evo K110 (100% tread, still have the sticker adhesive on the tires)
SS Goodrich Lines
Speed Bleeders
Hawk HPS Brake pads

Transmission:
act 2600 clutch
SS Clutch Line
Redline Oil in transfercase, tranny, and rear diff.
New TOB, Clutch Fork and fluid approx 3k miles ago

Misc.:
50% & 35% tint
JVC Radio
Polished Manifold Heat Shield
Polished Spark Plug Cover
Homemade Grounding Kit
Seat Leon Cupra R Front Lip
Samco Radiator Hoses
Slim Fans
TSX HID retrofit
CF Hood with Carbonttrix vent, could use a wetsand but stock hood is included.
A/C removed, will just need a new condensor, charge and belt to reinstall.
Replaced Timing belt and HArmonic Balancer approx 1-2k miles ago
Oil Changed with Royal Purple or Brad Penn every 5-6k


I Absolutely love this car. Nothing but traction, loves boost, and gets descent gasmileage. Drove this car everyday to and from work without a single problem and then bought a Jeep Cherokee in July so the car just sits and gets driven maybe once a month. All body panels are mint and only minor door dings you would expect out of a 12yr old car.

Picasa Pic Gallery:
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Interior:


As it sits today:

My name is Jon for those who don't know me and this will be my first thread on the MM forum, as well as my first project. Before I get into anything, I want to give warning to those who are let's say less open minded. This thread will not be for the faint of heart, for those who are about function > form, or for any BMW m3 owners. :lol: This car will be my daily for at least the length of my college years and I have decided it is time to do something unique to my car as well as unique to Madison Motorsports. Who would have though a Honda would be unique in MM?

Now that I have said that, I don my flame suit and prepare for the worst.

My daily driver, a 2000 Honda Accord Lx sedan, will be making its way into the "stance" community within the next few months. I have stockpiled all of the parts I need for my build at my house and I am just waiting until school is finished to return home (Maryland) to work on the car. The car sits as high as a monster truck and I plan to change this drastically. As of now the only mods to the car are 15% tint all the way around except windshield, Polk Audio 6x9s in the rear and 6.5s in the front. Stock head unit for now, as my Kenwood flip out unit broke last summer.


It will be lowered extremely on Function and Form Type II coilovers. These are fully adjustable with 32 way adjustable dampening. The car should ride very smooth because of this.


As if building a 2000 Accord wasn't different enough for me, I decided to go an abnormal way with my wheel choice as well. Instead of following my JDM roots, I decided to go with some European flair. You BMW owners may like this or hate it. I don't care. The wheels will be unveiled when the car is done. For now here is a teaser. Specs are 17x8.5 +20mm offset all the way around with a 3 inch stepped lip. Should be "hellaflush" for all you haters.


Being new to buying tires, it took me a while to decide on what I was going to by, as well as the size of tire. I decided to go with Falken because of their sidewall strength. I found that many people have stretched these tires with great success. I will only be running a slight stretch, but still wanted something that was going to hold up. I purchased a set of 205 45 17 Falken 912s from discount tire direct. They arrived at my house within the week even though they were on backorder!


Like many of you, I am not a fan of obscene amounts of camber. I purchased an ebay camber kit so that I can get a custom alignment after lowering the car. The alignment, fender rolling, and tire mounting and balancing will be done at Revision Auto Salon in Rockville, MD.


Before the hail of negative comments comes...No I don't and have no desire to autocross/track this car. Function > form is not a priority for this car. My only goal with this build is to create something unique that turns heads where ever I go.

Future Mods:
Remove tint from tail lights (Don't know why I thought this was cool when I was 14)
OEM window rain visors
Clear Headlights
Retrofit HIDs into stock housings
Wings West Lip Kit (front, rear, sides)
2 12" subs/amp

This will be updated as I begin to work on the car (tentatively around May 8th)

So this car was restored 10-13 years ago. Suspension, bushings, brakes, paint, interior, factory crate engine. 4-spd swapped for a 5-spd out of a later 318 (I really like this). It's a factory color, apparently you could get any imaginable color then:
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It's not perfect, and the guy did a Tommy Boy on the driver door after the restoration, but it was built to be a daily driver and that's what I intend to do with it too. I picked it up a week ago and so far I love it. It's kind of like driving a tiny truck, and about as refined as a steam locomotive. Got around to giving it a much needed bath and wax today:











It's been a while since I've had a car I'd actually be upset about if I were to crash it. That being said, it won't be seeing the track any time soon. Maybe one session. Maybe some autocrosses. I'm sure it'll have a never ending "to-do" list, but here's what I have in mind, in order of necessity:

It's really dry (that's what she said). I've already lubed the major hinges, taken the driver door apart and lubed and adjusted to get the lock working again, but still need to do the steering, passenger door, and a few other things. Everything's adjustable and can be fixed with grease, oil, or zip ties. I think I can even repack the wheel bearings!

Change all fluids, have only done engine oil thus far.

Replace non-functional stereo. I have a Dual XR4110 on the way, it's $36, maybe good enough. Speakers appear to be pretty up to date.

Considering a Stack ST700 or MyChron multi-gauge-dash-thing to replace the stock gauges. The gauges are all "working"... but they're all pretty wrong, misleading, and laughable in different ways. I'm love to hear of any lower cost recommendations.

Considering replacing all the seatbelts. Something I've never had on a to-do list (safety? wtf?), but the return springs are annoyingly weak and the belts look pretty tired.

If bleeding the brakes doesn't improve the useless first 2 inches of pedal travel, I guess it needs a master cylinder.

Clean, adjust carb. Runs pretty good but auto choke and cold idle need improvement. Some convert it to manual choke, that's worth considering.

Remove stock engine driven fan (no clutch on the thing even!) and install something electric. PO installed a larger radiator (thank you!) so it should be able to keep up. The '75-76 got an OVERdriven pulley for the water pump / fan to deal with the overtaxed cooling system, I'll keep my eye out for an earlier pulley.

Drop the whole exhaust and take it to a shop for reconditioning. It's got a pretty nice looking header on it and up-to-date muffler, but there's a leak somewhere. Would probably install a wideband O2 sensor so I could keep an eye on the mix. I like gauges.

Shocks/struts, maybe cut the stock springs or get something aftermarket. Not looking for super aggressive, and I don't want it much lower, but the suspension and stock spring rates are... horse and buggy. Wow. hock: That being said, the low weight still makes it fun to drive, it just takes a different level of planning ahead.

Tires are really nice fairly new Michelins, so no rush, but they're 13 (THIRTEEN? :lol: ) inch wheels with mostly gone finish that isn't very rewarding to clean. I have a set of E30 wheels that'll probably go on next time.

Take to someone that knows what they're doing (not me) and do some rust control.

Optional, low-on-the-list stuff I can think of includes relocating battery, tucking bumpers, fixing horn, fixing wiper fluid pump, replacing rear view mirror with fancy CIPA auto-dimming compass mirror. List does NOT include re-installing the trunk full of reconditioned Behr AC system parts, maybe that'll be worth selling.

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Yeah Yeah I know it's the same day as the VT Car show...
BUT For those of you with less shiny bits under the hoods of your cars and a serious yearning to get faster or just try autocross in general there is no better place than the BRR-SCCA Rookie School at Verona. Have you just started autocrossing and want to drop some serious time? You'll have an instructor in the passenger seat observing you and helping you figure out where you can go faster. You can even let them drive your car if you want for a lap to see what kind of laptime the car has in it and set a goal for yourself.
We always have good instructors and this year we added a few MM'ers to that list! (feel free to chime in guys)

Doing this event and having somebody guide your driving is like cramming years worth of autox experiance into 1 day.
It *MIGHT* even be good training for the next college challenge...HINT HINT.

This video is for you! One of my buddies that writes for Iron Horse sent it to me. I think he wants me to work on my bike or something.

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