Hello! My name is Chip Lowther, and I am a freshman here at JMU. Unfortunately, this means that I cannot bring my car, which I am missing a lot right now. I drive a 1995 Mustang Cobra Rio Red.




Currently, it has 52,xxx miles on it, so it's just getting broken in. I bought the car in 2013 with only 38,6xx miles on it. Since then, I have done some upgrades to it, mostly to improve the noise. At first, I wanted to keep the car stock, but then the mod bug bit me. I originally had Flowmaster 40 series on the car, however, they were just a bit too quiet, so I swapped that for Magnaflow Magnapack catback exhaust kit. I then decided the 4 cats (yes you read that right 4 Catalytic converters stock) had to go, and bought a BBK catted x-pipe. My friends then convinced me to buy an off-road x-pipe (no cats), and I installed this one afternoon in my garage. Now, the car has the classic 5.0 rumble and screams at WOT. :thumbup:

I then decided to throw a Steeda Tri-ax short throw shifter on it, and paint the calipers red for the extra 5 hp (I wish).



The last thing it has done to it is I have lowered it from the stock 4x4 height (rumor was it was that high for snow chains???).

Before:



After:





This was a much needed drop. I have some plans over winter for it, which include a new set of rear gears. I plan on going with 3.73s versus the stock 3.08 rear ratio. Also, before the school year is over, I want to get a dyno tune and a chip burned for the computer. Finally, around May, I plan to put some chrome Saleen wheels on it. That's the plan anyway :thumbup: . Thank you for reading this post, and see you around campus (or at events for the alumni )!

Hi.... My name is Mark Corkery and I am currently a Junior here at JMU. I am the proud owner of this 1990 Mustang GT. I bought this car my sophomore year of high school and it has been sucking every penny out of my wallet ever since. I guess I should start listing the parts.
Engine:
Built 306 bottom end, Steeda 18 cam, holley systemaxx2 heads and intake, 70mm Accufab TB, Paxton SN92 supercharger (7PSI), I do not have power numbers because when I rebuilt the supercharger I didn't have a boost gauge and when I took it to get tuned It lost all boost at 3.5k but It did put down 419TQ. Now that the problem is fixed I need to get it back on the dyno.
Brakes:
I have 13in Bear 2 Piston Brake kit in the front and stock drums in the rear. (on my long list of stuff to do)
Suspension:
Subframe connectors, and Eibach lowering springs with Tokico Shocks
I look forward to meeting everyone because I need some gear heads in my life here at JMU

Vortex link

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.ph...14)-11-500

More pics

http://www.morethanmore.com/audifox/

For Sale - $11,500

1978 Audi Fox / 80 coupe (B1)

Performance VW feature (01/14) / SoWo best of show 2013

Drivetrain

-Motor - AEB 1.8T / APR ecu upgrade (17 PSI) /ECS n75 / Forge DV / K&N cone filter / custom FMIC / -2.5 inch turbo back (no cat) one muffler
-Trans - PSA 5 speed from 1991 VW fox
-Clutch - spec stage 3 (6 puck)
-Secondary radiator mounted behind grill
-Electrical - CE2 wired (all original switches rewired to work with modern fuse block)

Exterior

-Front and rear euro bumpers (Audi 80)
-Euro (Audi 80) grill - headlights - turn signals
-Euro Audi 80 rear badging
-Fender mounted mirrors
-Car has 4 year old cheap paint job but presents itself great /. White roof was done about 1 year ago. Side markers and original mirror holes were shaved.
-All the original chrome / aluminum trim is in great shape.

Interior

-NOS dash (flocked black) - an uncracked dash is unheard of!
-MK2 Recaro seats recovered in red leather (brackets modified to fit B chassis) stock rear seat covered in same material.
-custom diamond pattern door panels
-VDO boost / water temp /volt gauges in center console
-custom black leather / chrome steering wheels with Audi logo center.
-custom machined brass shift knob with leather boot.

Suspension / Wheels

14x8 Tramont TY2 3 piece wheels. (fresh refinish)
195 toyo T1S tires
Bilstein rabbit GTI sport shock in shortened factory struts with sleeved coilovers

I am selling the Audi because I have purchased a new project car and need the funds and garage space (always garaged). I planned to sell this car last winter but decided I wanted to take the car to all of this years events. The car needs nothing and would make a cross country trip tomorrow.

I have owned this car for 3 years and it has not once left me stranded. I have done everything possible to make this a reliable car. It drives smooth and in no way feels like a car that's 35 years old. Car has made the 1300 miles round trip to SoWo twice / h2o twice / VAG fair twice / MK1 Madness twice and various other local meets and weekend cruises without a hiccup! It cruises nice at 80 mph for long distances and gets 31/33 mpg. Tracks straight / no vibrations. The car makes around 200 HP and weighs 2,000lbs! It's a lot of fun to drive and pretty damn quick!

The great thing about this car is you will most likely NEVER run into another (Audi fox) B1 at any event! Some have popped up recently but they are early cars. I have never seen another facelift (77-79) b1 on the streets/ event, let alone one with the euro front end and bumpers! This car gets positive attention wherever it goes! It's truly unique here in the US!

The car will be going to H2O in less than 2 weeks.

If you have any questions email me at <!-- e --><a href="mailto:yelloa3gti@aol.com">yelloa3gti@aol.com</a><!-- e --> or message me here.

All pictures used in this for sale ad were taken by Sam Dobbins.

What the best way to drain and refill coolant. I really don't want to drain/fill/run engine for whatever time period/repeat 1000 times to clean it all out like I did with the M3. I've also read that the block plugs of the f150 like to strip pretty easy (not sure the validity of this statement but i don't really want to find out either) so i would like to avoid that if possible

I have a couple cars to do so I'd like the easiest, quickest, cleanest way possible.

The Washington Post did a 3 part series on this issue, but I had heard about it awhile back. Long story short, due to the ar on drugs, police now have the power to seize cash from anyone they stop for even a minor traffic infraction. The police don't have to even charge someone to seize the money It is then incumbent upon the driver to prove the money was not earned illegally, which may take a year or more in court.

Aside from the raw hideousness of it, it's especially relevant to us because sometimes we pay for vehicles with cash. Several of the stories that have come out are people who were going to buy a car, or make some other large purchase with cash and ended up having their money confiscated, then having to fight in court to get their money back.

One of these stops happened in Fairfax County.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/sf/investigative/2014/09/08/they-fought-the-law-who-won/">http://www.washingtonpost.com/sf/invest ... w-who-won/</a><!-- m --> [open in incognito window if it prompts you for subscription]

Reading all this makes me think I will use cashier's checks from here on out if I'm gonna buy something cash.

Parts 1 & 2

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/sf/investigative/2014/09/06/stop-and-seize/">http://www.washingtonpost.com/sf/invest ... and-seize/</a><!-- m -->

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/sf/investigative/2014/09/07/police-intelligence-targets-cash/">http://www.washingtonpost.com/sf/invest ... gets-cash/</a><!-- m -->

The HDMI port on this TV crapped out last night, and I'm fixing it by buying a new TV, because dammit, why not.

The TV itself works very well - good, sharp picture and bright colors. Not exhibiting any behavior that indicates it needs a new bulb anytime soon. It's a 46ish" rear-projection (about 18" deep?). Displays in 1080 HD if you use the (fully functional) component video inputs or DVI input. Also has VGA and composite video in for your N64.

Looks like this:



I know one of you college kids wants a free, largeish TV. I have the remote for it and everything except the HDMI port works fine. Come pick it up in Reston.

In an effort to try and frequent this forum more often, I decided to post this up here. I haven't really posted much - lurk more than anything... Just a quick refresher, I'm Kevin from the Car Club at Virginia Tech. I know some of the "older" guys from MM, circa 2012-14. I try to make it out to some of your events, but it usually only ends up being autocross or your car show. Maybe I'll be able to make it out to something else :?

Just wanted to share this, in case anyone was interested. Picture heavy.
__________________________

I used to have a 2008 Scion tc... :lol: It was ok.





It had:
TRD intake (rebranded AEM)
Tsudo header
TRD axle back
Aero 25 resonator added to the mid pipe
NST lightweight crank pulley
TRD lowering springs (rebranded eibach)
TRD short throw shifter
Gunmetal painted stock wheels w/ 225/45/17 Hankook RS-3s
LED gauge and HVAC swap (before it was cool 8) )

The setup I had would supposedly dyno at ~170/170, up from ~145 stock
__________________________

Anyway.... I sold it in 2012, I wanted something more. I was looking at e36 M3s, but figured it would be too much of a headache in the long run. Looked at is300s (but everything I found was ragged to hell or was in a wreck). I then shifted to evo Xs and managed to get an insanely good deal on a new one, but turned and ran away fast because of insurance..... :vomit:


Long story short, I picked up a 2013 FR-S on August 11, 2012. I wanted something fun and practical [enough] that I could also use for autocross etc.




Needless to say, it didn't take long for me to mod it.

I got an Airaid intake. Long story short, the ECU took a while to adjust to it (very gradual). Because it took a while, I never really noticed how bad the intake was. It made my car run rough, and robbed me of power. I swapped back to stock and put on a Blitz drop in filter, and it was night and day. Idle no longer dipped, and the car felt faster. Intakes/panel filters usually dyno at 5whp. For the car to feel like it did after switching, it was obvious the intake was garbage. After further researching, it turns out that the Airaid needs a tune, unlike some others.

I got bored of the stock wheels and took an extra set from my tc. They didn't fit because the center bore was too small... I enlarged it to make it fit, but I needed flat-faced lug nuts. For the time being, I got some cheap lug nuts. No. Mistakes were made. :oops: One of the lug nuts wasn't machine properly and ended up cutting into a stud, and getting horribly cross threaded, and then ended up snapping the stud when I went to take off the wheel.


Anyway this is what it looked like after my short-term project



I picked up a set of Fortune Auto v4 500s with Swift springs shortly after

And here's how it sat afterwards



Later on I got introductory pricing for an Ark grip cat back exhaust


I thought it sounded the most unique from the ones on the market at the time (and I still think it does). It might not be the lightest, but it sounds and looks good! ...At least I think, haha :thumbup: I also got their resonated front pipe and a JDL over pipe


Next mod was control arms to help fix camber in the rear as well as beef things up. Cusco vs OEM



Next up was repainting the wheels. I decided to go with satin white pearl and color match the wheels



Lucky me, in April 2013, a sority girl driving a camry thought my car was cute and wanted to kiss it on the cheek with her car. :evil:


....But luckily enough, I was able to pick the car up the morning of the MM '13 show!



I'm sure I probably got more mods or something between then, but the roller bearings (thrst/radial bearings) on my coilovers dried out (bad design). Every time I turned the wheel, there was a nice twang sound. Contacted Fortune Auto and got a new [redesigned] set.



Vs old:


This is what happens to exposed bearings and driving the car through snow/salt/rain.... Rocks, dirt, and rust. The new ones shouldn't do this. I was so used to the creaking and twanging, it is so weird to me now to have no noise when I turn the wheel. Also since the bearings aren't rusted, it's a little easier to turn the wheel. And, the car rides a little bit smoother and noise over bumps isn't as prominent as before. Definitely satisfied with them so far. -(this was posted around last Thanksgiving)


Through a local forum back at home, I found a set of Eibach sway bars for half off. Stock are 19F/14R mm. Eibach is 25/19


I ran into a clearance issue with the rear. My lower control arms are too thick/wide, so I had to unbolt one side and take the arm off just to get the rear sway bar up and mounted,


Here are some more pictures:

MM 2014 show


Winter set up






I've since ran through the RS-3s and am now on all seasons. They are....acceptable by my levels, but it sure as hell makes autocross that much more of a challenge. I really wish I had some more meat on there (as well as wider wheels). I'm sure I'm missing some stuff in regards to mods. The car has come quite a bit from when it was stock, and is still a blast to drive every day. I do eventually want to get a proper set of wheels/tires, as well as a tune, among other things. Sadly those won't come till later on in life (most likely after I get through school :dunno: ) In the mean time, it' small things. I haven't really modded the car since I don't know, November/December? Since then, I've gotten the sway bars because the deal was too awesome to pass up, and a short throw shifter last month. Car is mostly done for now, but I plan to mod it more. I was thinking to maybe supercharge it wayyyy down the line, and possibly wide-body it. Who knows, haha. My mind has changed so much in the time I've had this car. For now, it's just my daily driver and autocross car. Hopefully I can make it out to some more events this year... only time will tell, but my schedule is pretty unpredictable.


Lastly, here are some mods:
Engine/Transmission
Ark Performance Grip cat back exhaust
Ark Performance front pipe
JDL over pipe
Blitz panel air filter
Kartboy rear shifter bushing
White line transmission mount
TRD short shifter

Suspension/Chassis
Fortune Auto v4 500 coil overs
Swift springs
Fortune Auto upgraded, sealed bearings
Fortune Auto adjustable front end links
Cusco adjustable rear lower control arms
FT86 Speedfactory 3-point front strut tower bar

Wheels/Tires/Brakes
Fake Enkei RP-F1s painted satin white pearl (tC1 wheels rebored to fit)
225/45/17 Michelin all seasons
215/45/17 Michelin Alpin PA2 (winter tires)
TRD brake pads

Lighting
EuroFX 6k HIDs in lowbeams
LED dome light, reverse lights, trunk light, license plate lights
Diode Dynamics fog light kit with OEM switch
Red out tail lights

Cosmetic/Rice/Exterior
Grimmspeed license plate relocator
Grimmspeed oil cap
TRD gas cap
Tint
Nemo keychain


Future?
Header
Swap out exhaust (to accomodate for header)
Tune
Wheels/tires
Bushings
Pulleys
Lip kit
Lip spoiler
Shark fin antenna?

OK! Hoping we'll see some new students out here alongside us good ol' standbys.

Friday is Comp School and Test & Tune, Saturday/Sunday are HDPEs, TT and racing. C'mon out for rides (make sure the car has a passenger seat first!) and/or sign up for a Hyperdrive. $50 to put your car on track.

Sign up here for a Hyperdrive.

For you new guys, food & erm, "beverages" on Saturday night are free - that's the "party for everyone" I mentioned. We can help coordinate a hotel room or two if need be.

I'll be there Friday thru Sunday driving pace and TTing my little heart out. Hopefully faster than last month.

Hey all, there's a drift event for anyone interested this weekend on Saturday. It's at Shenandoah Speedway (address is 301 Precision Rd, Shenandoah, Virginia 22849) and it's from 10am til 11PM. This will be pretty much the only day and night drifting event around, so it'll be pretty cool to check out. Also there will be a solo and tandem competition happening at some point in the day.

Spectating is $10 per person, and you can get ride alongs.
If you wanna drive, it's $75 for 13 hours of track time

Here's the link to the FB event
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.facebook.com/events/480966882040251/?source=1">https://www.facebook.com/events/4809668 ... /?source=1</a><!-- m -->

Hey all, we'll be having a cruise on the Sunday of the 14th to get the new members out there actually riding/driving cars as a club as soon as possible! It's the normal cruise up 33 to the campground we always stop at,so you all know the drill.

Meet time is 2pm in the R1 parking lot, aka baseball lot. We'll be grabbing food together after the cruise at Quaker Steak. :thumbup: