<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f53/removing-08-malibu-headlight-housing-62951/">http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f53/removing-08-malibu-headlight-housing-62951/</a><!-- m -->

So it is apparently a 3 hour fucking job to replace a headlamp bulb. Can this possibly be right? Just about makes me want to trade the fucking car in...

Ok so you have three gauge spots, what 3 gauges would you see as the most important that tell the most about your engine.

Now because I have an e36 and I do not plan to do the oil pump nut until I refresh my front suspension, which will be awhile as Cooling System has priority over suspension. Oil pressure if a top priority adn the only reason to do gauges in the first place.

The way I see it, get a UUC Oil Center which gives me two sender spots to use. I know I want Oil Pressure and figured I would use the other sender position for temperature (reasoning below)

So far...

Guage 1-Oil Presuure
Gauge 2-Oil Temperature

Now my third choice would probably be Water Temperature because as I learned last weekend from some alumni( I think the circle was Dj, Rex, Kaan, and Jake) through a discussion about dummy stock water temp is that the e36 has an extremley large buffer meaning that it will sit in the middle of the gauge through a wide range of temperatures and move when you are already damaging your engine

For that reason, I would like to keep a more watchful eye on water temp and I have considered cutting apart my stock cluster and removing the dummy gauge but it would look like a e36 got it on with an sti becasue I will probably use prosport guages. I suppose I could use VDO which is supposedly the OEM equivalant but the Prosport have a super cool startup thingy . <----ßâÜ(Ó▓áþøèÓ▓áßâÜ) Why you no have this smilie, I'm tired of having to steal it from other sites, I think we all know which site. And no its not the same as the :evileye:

Now I promised an explanation why Oil temp over lets just say water pressure. One I already have a sender port for it whereas I still havn't thought about where to even mount the water temp sensor. Is drilling into the radiator and taping a port out of the question? :dunno: Anyway, I figure that if I blow a radiator, one I would notice extremley quickly so no real need to have a guage tells me when it goes. Next would be the fact that the water temp could indicate a blockage or faulty thermostat by a really hot temp. Third, what the water temp senosr missed perhaps becasue it is in the radiator and not the engine, the oil temp could quickly clue me in to a cooling problem by getting hot, wouldn't it? Perhaps I have put too much faith in the fact that the lubrication fluid would clue me in to a cooling problem but am I wrong in that assumption?

Fuel Pressure would be nice with an extra spot but not a neccessary on a street car really. The only gauge I feel i really really need is the oil pressure and becasue of the stokc guage buffer area, a water temp would be good too.

E36's have a great mounting spot in my opinion, Right where the radio resides. Hear me out. Take the radio and move it down where the "sunglass pocket" resides. Why so much work you ask? Well I answer, and I have two main reasons and one supplemental reason. The first is it puts the gauges up where they need to be, close to the stock level which makes view extremley easy. Second, when i am messing with my radio, I perfer to just rest my arm on something and click the next button without really looking. Well hello Mr. Console, you would be perfect as an arm/wrist rest while I mess with my tunes. Radio messing is usally reserved for 5th gear anyways with the shifter out of the way. That is just my take and the supplement would be it gives me something custom to do at no real extra cost becasue I enjoy that type of thing.

Now, I'm not sure if that is what I will do becasue my gauges will have peak settings and alarms and crazy shit that alerts me to a problem so line of sight isn't a major scary worrying issue and not to mention, the din pocket under the OBC is not hard to glance at while driving.

WARNING: NON-BMW CONTENT AHEAD

Question up front: Are fuel injectors on a Subaru a PITA to swap? I've read it takes several hours and the intake manifold might have to come off?

Background: A couple of months ago, the Foz had developed a bit of a hiccup at idle. I got a solid CEL and the flashing cruise light which turned out to be P0302 - misfire on cylinder #2. I went ahead and changed all the plugs since I don't know if its ever been done. I also swapped the coilpacks for cylinders #2 and #4 and put di-elec grease on all the connections. The car ran like a top afterwards. :thumbup: Then a couple of weeks ago, the Foz started to stumble at idle again, same solid CEL and flashing cruise light. Pulled the code and it turns out to be P0302 again. At this point, I figure its the fuel injector since it didn't follow the coilpack. Before I dig into it while its 100deg outside, could it possibly be something else that I haven't even thought of? If swapping injectors is a huge pain in the ass, should I just replace them the first time instead of swapping them and then having to do it all over again if that confirms that the injector is the problem?

Some random questions/thoughts:

Why would the car run great for a few months after changing the plugs if that wasn't the problem in the first place?
Is there a good tutorial on NABISCO/Scoobymods/etc. on swapping injectors? I haven't been able to find one.

Ok so I just finished replacement of my flex disc (guibo) and center driveshaft support bearing and now I noticed a problem. Now first off, let me say I had a vibration under acceleration but it seemed to get less noticable recentley. So I replaced the parts above and also did a short shifter with the UUC DSSR and new trans mounts. I just noticed today that under acceleration, in second gear between 2,500-3,000rpm I get a vibration from the trans./driveshaft area of the car.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what this could be. The DSSR drops the shifter assembly and clearance between shifter and guibo were close but under acceleration, the trans should flex down, not up towards the shifter. I also replaced the trans fluid with what is suppose to be top of the line swepco stuff that pelican sells. I did push the center support bearing forward while tightening it down as per the instructions. I really do not feel like dropping the exhaust again and wrestling it out and in by myself but will if I really really have to.

Sorry to post this here, but figured everyone would check this forum section the most.

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I'm not affiliated in anyway.

I've believed this for a long time, the more cars that have systems that allow people to inattentive jackasses on the road, the less safe we'll be.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.wired.com/autopia/2011/07/active-safety-systems-could-create-passive-drivers/">http://www.wired.com/autopia/2011/07/active-safety-systems-could-create-passive-drivers/</a><!-- m -->

Personally I think there should be active endangerment systems in cars. Like, if it detects you putting on makeup it should slam on the brakes. Take both hands off the steering wheel for more than a second or two, and it sprays you with hot oil. Text while driving and it swerves you off the road into a ditch. That'll learn 'em.

In an effort to keep debates out of the build threads this can be the new playground. There is theory on building cars, debate on what parts are helpful, issues with time trail cars that need to be solved within the rules (and points 99% of the time), and Ill even try to keep rules updated here.

NASA Time Trials: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.nasa-tt.com/Rules">http://www.nasa-tt.com/Rules</a><!-- m -->
SCCA Time Trials: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.scca.org/contentpage.aspx?content=44">http://www.scca.org/contentpage.aspx?content=44</a><!-- m -->
Redline Time Attack: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.redlinetrackevents.com/">http://www.redlinetrackevents.com/</a><!-- m -->

NASA has more local events, the SCCA has limited events locally, and Redline is a west coast thing. SCCA has the ÔÇ£solo1ÔÇØ which is sort of like time trials. There is also ÔÇ£One Lap of AmericaÔÇØ I would deem a huge time trail style event.

If you study the rules long enough, youll always be able to find that gun you can bring to the knife fight! It takes time to get good with Time Trial rules, so feel free to ask questions but try to read the rules first. And by rules, I mean the rules and the point sheet. One of those two documents might have the answer.
<3
Let the pissing contest begin!

Hey guys, looking to see if anyone here would be interested in buying my 09' Ralliart.

Price - $19,000 for MM

As i have mentioned before it is leased so there is a certain amount i need to cover (buyout plus what's left on lease) so no lowballs.

She's got 30,200 miles on her currently, routine maintenance has been done and a synthetic Mobile1 oil change has never gone past 5k miles.

Just put on new brakes, Hawk HPS pads in the front and Akebono ceramic in the back; new rotors as well.

Currently as makeshift short ram intake in there but i can provide, or reinstall the stock airbox if needed. The windows were professionally tinted at 15% and i have never run into any problems with that, they're also guaranteed not to purple or bubble.

It has AWD, and shares an engine with the Evo, albeit with a smaller turbo. It's quick and does awesome in the snow (i once towed joey's M3 with it ) I personally love the Twin Clutch transmission, it was great when i was stuck in traffic and brilliant for spirited driving and autox-ing.

Right now it has the black Enkei's on it which i haven't included in the price but if you want them i'm sure we can work something out, it will come with the stock rims wrapped in Blizzacks.

It's been a great car to me and part of me wants it to stay but i'd like to explore my option of upgrading to an EvoX,

The only negatives really are a scratch on the passenger door and a slight ticking noise at idle. I think i've had some of you listen to it, it doesn't affect the car at all and i've had a dealership look at it. They said that it is normal for the car and that Mitsu is aware of it but, "has no fix at this time".

Feel free to ask my any questions...



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Chili Red with white top, mirrors, and bonnet stripes, 93k miles

Factory options:
Multi-function steering wheel with radio controls + cruise
Center arm rest
Limited slip differential
Cloth seats

Other stuff:
Factory iPod adapter (plays through the car sound system and radio controls)
AUX input
Milltek polished stainless cat back exhaust
K&N flat panel air filter
New OEM brake pads, rotors, wear sensors and ATE Super blue brake fluid last May at about 83K
4, 195-55 VR X16 Hankook Ventus V4 ES H105 non-runflat tires about 6 weeks ago
MSD coil pack and Magnecor wires
Koni yellow SA shocks front and DA shocks rear
16x7 Rota RB wheels along with the factory 16in wheels
*Supercharger has been replaced in April of this year by the Mini dealer.

Autocross history:
Since 2006 the car has scored top pax in BRR events 10 times with 5 different drivers. It has won a class championship every year from 2006-2010. It has also won 2 VAC and 1 NCAC championship

Also included are the stock shocks and exhaust.

Check Engine light story;
The check engine light came on in the car last summer. The code is 2906 for post cat oxygen sensor lean. The dealer changed the oxygen sensor 3 or 4 times, the boost tube twice, the spark plugs, the fuel injectors, the water pump (donÔÇÖt ask) and a bypass valve all to no avail. They found an air leak near the intake and now they say it is fixed for good. Through it all the car has run perfectly getting around 30 mpg in ÔÇ£normalÔÇØ driving.

The retail price according to NADA.com is $13.4K.

$12,500obo

Honda Ridgeline RTX, silver with gray interior. It is a garage kept vehicle 1 owner that is not driven daily. It is in excellant condition inside and out. It currently has 29,500 miles and it has been only dealer serviced and I have all the service records. I just completed the 30k mile service. Equipment includes CD player, power windows and locks, fog lights, bed cover, and towing package. I have found a Suburban that fits my family/traveling needs better at this point.



$21,000obo

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