For those that have track cars. Are they registered? Do you have insurance on them? How do you get them to the track? Do you have your own truck and trailor?

I was studying (yes already!) im trying to stay on top of things this semester instead of getting drunk everynight and fucking up my grades. Anyways, I was studying and was thinking of track cars. Ive got a certain type of car in mind and I Was thinking that I could buy that car in shell form or blown up engine. That way it would be cheap, I know I would probably be able to get the replacement engine for that typical car for free or very dirt cheap, so it seemed plausible that I could afford a track car. I am just too worried that I will crash my eclipse which has WAAAYYY too much money invested to risk crashing into a barrier at the track.

Give me advice!! BTW, my eclipse is already paid off, so any incoming money I have now goes towards the eclipse or going out doing shit. So it would be pretty easy for me to afford the car and engine and random maintenance. However, insurance and registering my car would look like it would kill me if its like my current insurance.

What are you guys going with? I don't want to do a whole system yet, mainly b/c I don't have the time to install it, and it cost so freeking much. So, CCR says I need at least a 2lb ABC with quick release metal mounts. Ideas?

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying.


WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Ouch...."


ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.


PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.


HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.


VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to further round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.


OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.


WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.


HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.


EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.
TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.


E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway.


TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength on everything you forgot to disconnect.


CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large prybar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.


AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.


TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, it's main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.


PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.


AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 50 years ago by someone at Ford, and neatly rounds off their heads.


PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.


HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses too short.


HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.


MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.


DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also the next tool that you will need.


EXPLETIVE: A balm, also referred to as mechanic's lube, usually applied verbally in hindsight, which somehow eases those pains and indignities following our every deficiency in foresight.

Okay, so I've got this car, an old busted Accord ('93) and I need to get rid of it. Nobody wants to buy it, particularly, and the charity rules have changed as far as tax write offs (I've heard).

Sooo... what do you guys do with cars you can't sell?

Do you junkyards buy them? Do they charge you to take them? I've never had to do this before so any help would be great.

There goes $2K :roll:

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I was originally going to keep this, just in case I ended up with an SE-R. But I'd rather just have the money at this point.

NProbe (complete w/ cables, software cd, manual)
Palm M100 (preinstalled NProbe Lite software, sync cable, leather case)

Retailed new for well over $500 (without the Palm). I'm advertising this for $425 in other places. Special MM-only price is $375 shipped.

For some reason my parking brake light on my dash comes on randomly even when my parking brake is down. There doesn't seem to be any trend to when it flashes on and off. For the last few days it has been pretty random.

Fwiw, I did notice it flash on while I took a turn fairly spirited. Focusfanatics says brake fluid should be checked, but they feel stout as hell. Is it an eletrical glitch?

Me and a some guys from jmu meet regularly to ride around the valley...rite now there are like 4-5 of us who ride around pretty much every second day....So lemme know if any of you guys are interested....
my im is billaall drop me a line

and does anyone know what kinda bike it was that got hit by a car yesterday

Lately, I've noticed that the forum doesn't pick up my post. I'll write something, click post, I'll get an error message and then when I click the back button to try again, all the stuff I wrote is gone. It's happened maybe 6-7 times now.