who set the bomb off on the railroad tracks this morning? fess up now! hock:

I've got 2 sets of wheels (no tires mounted) for sale:

1) Kosei K1 Racing 15x7 4x100 +38 offset. They're currently painted bronze. The paint is not in very good condition as they've been painted 3 times and it shows. But they are straight. -SOLD-


2) ATS Complites 15x7 4x100/108 +35 offset. Gunmetal in color, good condition. Looking to get $350. -SALE PENDING-


PM me for special MM price

http://www.summitpointfatt.com/

Quote:Friday at the Track (FATT) is an introduction to high speed driving. It is an instructional event where you can bring your street car out for a day at the track and enjoy going fast without the fear of red and blue lights in your rear-view mirror. For a whole lot less than the cost of a speeding ticket, you receive classroom instruction, skidpad instruction in our cars (including front and rear skid management), and four sessions of in car instruction in your own car. It is a chance to go fast and have fun in a safe environment.

Next Event: Saturday, March 13, 2010

Winter weather got you down? Sign up now and get the heat started on Saturday, March 13th during the first event of 2010!
How much does FATT cost?
FATT cost $250 and includes four track sessions with a personal instructor as well as skid pad time in our training cars.

What if it rains?
FATT is a rain or shine event. High speed in the rain is actually one of the best ways to teach students how to be smooth since the vehicle language is accentuated.

pretty cool story, although this is probably better than porn for Jeff.

Story taken from teamshelby.com. The person who did this, Neil, is in a local SRT-4 club I'm in. Just wanted to share his incredible story:


This details a project I did on someone's 1986 Shelby GLHS (#432/500). GLHS stands for Goes Like Hell - Shelby (or Goes Like Hell, S'more, depending on who you ask). The GLHS was a Dodge Omni that Carroll Shelby took, and turned into a monster. This one is more like a monster's monster. If you want to know more about what a GLHS is, and what makes it special, just type Shelby GLHS into a Google search, and be prepared for the mountain of info. The GLHS is very much the predecessor to the SRT-4. I really think of the SRT as being the GLHS of the 21st Century. Cheap, fast, fun. OK, below is from teamshelby.com, and I do leave out a lot of details, as it is assumed that you know what the original configuration is. A real quick and dirty rundown is, originally the car had a 2.2L SOHC engine making a (rated) 175hp/175ftlbs. 5 Speed manual (A525) transaxle with rod actuated shifter, steel flywheel and wimpy clutch. Koni struts/shocks all around (impossible to find nowadays), 10.25" front discs, rear drums. Noted for being fast, but a complete rattletrap, very unreliable, and very bio-degradable (they rust). Quality on these cars was horrible, in other words. The project was to restore, improve, preserve, and take it up a notch or two in performance and reliability. Oh, and it needed to look good, too

If you would like to read the whole thread, with all the comments, you can follow this link: http://www.teamshelby.com/foru...-guys/, but you will need to register to view it. Enjoy!


Wow! OK, well, this is truly one of the most incredible automotive journeys I have ever taken! I will try to retrace the steps this whole process has taken, but if anyone is wanting to see pics from beginning to end, please goto: Link to the GLHS Restoration Pics!

To understand this story, you will also need to take a look at the restoration of my old 86 GLHS #053 (Invoice #102) GLHS #053 That is truly where this all started. I owned that car for many years, raced it, got through school in it, dated my Wife to be in that car. When I finally had a few $$$ to do it some justice, I spruced it up, and made it tastefully better wherever I could. I put decent paint on it, and added all the 'right' mods. This eventually caught Chris Papademetrious' eye. I had built a car just about the way he would do it. Almost. You see, Chris owned GLHS #432. He owned it for many years, raced it, got through school in it..... See a pattern here?

Chris and I have known each other through mailing lists and chat rooms over the years, and were more or less casual acquaintances. He changed that in mid 2007 with the idea of having me restore his GLHS. To be honest, I blew him off more than once. When he contacted me in late summer again, he was a bit more serious. I told him this was not going to be a cheap or fast process. He said, it can take 5 years for all he cared. I agreed. In early October, the car was shipped from Pennsylvania out to me in New Mexico. It was a sad sight. Very low on compression, fluids leaking everywhere, and the rust. Oh the rust! Rust through all four doors. Rust through the floorboards. Rust through the hatch, the trunk and more! Dents in the hood. Dents in the doors. Dents in the roof. Then there was the upholstery. OK, let's skip all that for now. The car was rough. Real rough. But under all that was a diamond, we just had to remove all the unwanted bits. This is what it looked like when I first picked the car up to bring it back to Raton. The picture makes it look good. And at 100', the car was good. Walk any closer, and you wanted to constantly adjust your glasses. The car was a heap!



When we first approached this project, the goals were a bit overly simplistic. Get a fairly good paint job, and build a hot engine, do a little brake work, and make everything work. Projected budget: $20-25k. Wow. We can do that! On my way home from the shipping place with the car, I stopped in to Hot Rod Restorations in Pueblo, CO. The owner looked the car over, and said, "Yeah, we can do this right. Bring the car back to me with nuthin' on it." He meant it, too. His price? Well, let's just say the budget was nearly gone right there. A call to Chris went something like this: N: "Well, Chris, here's the deal. We can do this nice, or we can go first class." C: "Let's go all the way." And that was that. From that point on, every time we came to a decision on parts, methods, etc, I always presented Chris with an Option A (high price) or Option B (not quite as high price), and Option A was always the answer. You see, the farther we got into this, the more Chris wanted this car to approach perfection. That's a tall order when trying to restore a 21 year old (at the time) 200k mile, rusting econobox. Sprinkle on top of that Chrysler being bought and sold like a penny stock, and old parts inventories getting scrapped in the process, and it becomes easier to restore a 1929 Ford Model A with nothing but NOS parts, than fixing this car (and having pulled that stunt, too, I can tell you first hand that it's the truth!)

So, body shop chosen, budget thrown to the wind, the work begins. We had an opening at the body shop. I had to get the car back to the shop within 8 days. So I stripped the car. No, I _stripped_ the car. If it was not there to hold the doors, hood, hatch or glass on, or trim it came off. The rest would come off at the body shop. Here it is, as a bare shell:



At this point, we saw some real signs of what all those years, miles and a few bumps did to the chassis. Many spot welds throughout the unibody had broken, resulting in sheet metal separating from the frame. It was very obvious in the front end, as we could now see where a previous wreck was not properly repaired, and the inner fender sheet metal on both sides of the car was completely detached from the frame

There was lot more to see, and again, you can look at the pics here: http://www.chrispitude.net/ind...art=0 , if you want to pore over the hundreds of photos.

While the car was at the body shop, we formulated the plan for the driveline. The goal was to build a good, reliable powerplant, capable of quite a bit of power, then toned back down to ensure long life. We also wanted just enough refinement to not cause issues, but it needed to have that same sort of 'roughness' that the original engine had. You see, with modern technology, and newer model parts, it would be possible to build a firebreather that idled like a Cadillac. We did not want that. OK, I did, Chris didn't Chris wanted to maintain a little bit of that original 'character'. But we would be pushing it where possible. We started with a late 2.2 "Common Block" engine. Forged TII rods with Venolia forged pistons. A high volume oil pump rounded out the bottom end. Up top we used an open chamber "G" head, ported and polished. A TAFT S2 roller cam, ported 2 piece intake manifold with a 58mm throttle body. A ceramic coated VNT exhaust manifold and a Garrett GT2871 dual ball bearing turbo (also ceramic coated). For fuel, we used the stock fuel rail with Mopar Performance +40% Super 60 injectors. On the driveline, we used an aluminum flywheel, Centerforce DualFriction clutch, and a very nicely built and powdercoated A568 transaxle built by Cliff Ramsdell with custom gear ratios and a Torsen type differential. Axles are chromemoly custom units built by the Driveshaft Shop.

Here's what the completed drivetrain looked like right before it went back into the car:


Meanwhile, work progressed at the body shop. They stripped the shell to bare metal.


When the bodywork was completed, all the original welds were repaired, rust in the floors and doors were replaced with patch panels (all original sheet metal was retained - no replacement panels!) The patch panels and the associated metal work was so good, you will be hard pressed to ever find them, even if you disassemble the car! All contours and shapes in the floorboard metal were retained, so it looks all original. Over 10 pounds of bondo was removed from the hood (not a joke), and the metal was straightened. A cart was constructed, and the shell was placed on it. It made it easier to move the car around while working on it. I picked the car up on this cart, and towed it home. This is what the shell looked like when the body shop was done with it:




From the get-go, we knew we wanted rear disc brakes on the car. I had them on my GLHS, and I really liked them. We had new Koni struts and shocks, LRE racing springs, poly bushings, and a bunch of other goodies. Chris also wanted one of my Traction Control Systems in the car. Well, that setup is designed for newer Chrysler products, primarily the 2003-2005 Dodge SRT-4 and the 2008-9 Dodge Caliber SRT-4. They have ABS, and a rear ABS sensor is needed to make it work. So, one of our conversations was, well, we need to put a rear ABS sensor in to make the TCS work. OK. So, this was my chance to talk Chris into something Why stop at the sensor? Let's put the entire braking system in from a Neon SRT-4! Yes, let's get the big brakes, ABS, and electronic Dynamic Proportioning! I have to say, I was hot on this, Chris wasn't at the time, but he warmed up eventually (more on that, later!). I was so proud of myself for coming up with this 'brilliant' idea. I would come to rue the day! First I acquired the complete brake system, including lines from a wrecked 2005 SRT-4, along with all the engine bay wiring. I cannibalized the ABS unit, brakes, and wiring for the ABS portion. I figured out where the ABS unit would go (it is VERY hidden from view, BTW), and how the hard lines and flex lines would need to go. I had the lines made by Classic Tube. That was a bit of a disaster in itself, but after sending lines and fittings back and forth a few times, we finally had stainless steel brake and fuel lines in the car. Happy days. Front brakes had a few bumps, but the main things were, we ended up using SRT-4 knuckles, with a bit of machine work done to them. We had the DSS axles custom made with ABS tone rings. Lastly, we used a 15mm hub spacer to space the Shelby Centurion wheels out far enough to clear the massive SRT-4 rotors and brake calipers. That wasn't too hard, but the rear brakes more than made up for it. The rear brakes were, umm, difficult. I will spare you the details, but the hours into figuring out what combination of parts to use seemed endless. There are brake and rear hub parts back there from no less than five different Chrysler models, spanning 1986 to 2005. I kid you not. Did I mention that this all started because we wanted to adapt one of my TCS boxes to work in this car?



Chris and I had a little back and forth on the electronics in the car. The original Logic Module based wiring harness in the car had had it. It was in horrible shape, so there was no saving it, and no going back to it. Chris was fortunate to have bought the Mopar Performance Super 60 wiring harness back in the day, and it was new in the bag. So, nice, new wiring to work with. However, S60 is based on SMEC electronics, which I abhor. I tried to talk Chris into modifying the S60 harness to work with the newer SBEC engine controller, and its superior sequential EFI, but he won out on this one, so we stuck with the SMEC. Something about not wanting to make the wiring too complicated. Yeah, um, OK there, Chris So we took the 'simple' wiring, and made it complicated. Hiding inside the wiring harness is all the wiring for the TCS, MultiCal setup, Wideband O2, ABS, and heavy-duty wiring for the E-code headlamps and relays. He did not want to see ANY of that wiring sticking out. So, I took the brand new S60 wiring harness, completely disassembled it, and rebuilt it, with all the extra goodies added in. There were plenty of smaller things tossed in there, just to spice it up, too. This same approach was taken with everything in the engine bay. If it wasn't stock, then it needed to either be completely hidden from view, or darn well look like it was stock. This extended into every area. The brake booster? Well, that looks like a stock GLHS piece, but it isn't. It's an SRT-4 unit, modified to bolt in the exact location and position as the stock one. That shifter? That's not a stock L-body rod shifter. It's from a 90 P-body, and the shifter cables are hidden completely. Stock height and position are retained to maintain the stock illusion. In fact, only the truly trained Shelby Dodge eye will spot the differences, and that was the idea. On the exterior of the car, only three giveaways. The ride height (lowered 1.25"), the exhaust pipe, and those cool looking red calipers peeking through (and Chris wants to paint those gray to hide them!).


Interior started coming together at this point. It was completely reupholstered with NOS materials.



So now the engine is bolted in (would be months before it actually fired). Still had to put tons of parts into the car, including exhaust, wiring, and well, everything you touch or works in a car. Seriously, you can hot rod a car, swap engines, even rewire a car. Until you have had it down to pretty much every last nut and bolt, and then have to put this giant 3D puzzle back together, you do not know the definition of work!

So next, we worked on the exhaust, which is a 2.5" mandrel bent system, going up and over the axle, through a muffler and out the back. A big thanks to Vic Dobney for the fabrication help on this one. It is tucked in real high and tight to the body, and does not hang way down, like many aftermarket systems do.




The GLHS #432 was finally alive! The funny thing was, I did not even plan for this moment. Most things (not everything) were ready, but I had planned on getting things a bit closer before trying to start it. But, I had the camera out, and thought, why not? Let's give it a go. And right off it went!

A few (real) work projects came into play at this point, so I had to walk away from the GLHS for a few days. More like a week. When I came back to it, I put more of the engine bay together, and began to tune the engine. I ran the engine several times, but always had the car up in the air. On the 21st of December, I was going to load the car onto the trailer. That's when a serious headache began. I put the car on the ground, hitched up the trailer, and opened the garage door into the frigid 6┬░ air. Started the car, pressed the clutch, and put it into reverse. I said, I put it into reverse. Let's try that again, PUT IT IN REVERSE. No, it would not go. Mind you, I had been through all 5 gears AND reverse when the car was in the air, no issue. But now, it simply would not go. A little diagnosis revealed my last minute nightmare. There was something wrong with the clutch! If you have never endured the pain and suffering of changing a clutch on an L-body, especially one now equipped with the even larger than normal A568 transaxle, then you have just not lived. I kid you not, I thought I was going to cry. You see, in an effort to get this car done before Chris would arrive, I spent lot of nights up late. I was averaging 4 hours of sleep a night, work all day for (real) work, and then work all night on the GLHS. Between Thanksgiving and Christmas, I can count on one hand how many nights I had not worked on this car until midnight or 2 AM. Did I mention that it was 6┬░ out?

My bigger problem was that this was a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch for a 1992 Dodge Spirit R/T. Oh, you never heard of a Spirit R/T? Well, I was pretty sure that the local parts guy in Raton, NM, population 7000 was not going to have heard of it either. It was an even safer bet that he would not have a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch for a 1992 Dodge Spirit R/T on the shelf, either. The next day, I got up, did my (real) work, then proceeded to drop the transaxle. (It sounds so easy to just type that in a short sentence!) A phone call on Tuesday, 22 December to Centerforce would be a bit of a game changer, however. The folks there were very helpful. They did tell me that the clutch is an unusual one, and that it would have to be custom made. My heart sunk a bit. They called me back, told me the clutch was done(!), and would be shipping it out! After stalking my poor FedEx lady, I received the clutch on Christmas Eve, and put it all back together. Thank you very much Centerforce, and an even bigger thanks to my Wife, Donna, who took pity on me and ran the floor jack in my 10┬░ garage, and helped me get the transaxle back into its home. I drove the car up and down the driveway a few times, declared victory, then loaded the family up in the Explorer to take off for Christmas!

On the 28th, I loaded the car on the trailer. Time to get an alignment. My day was planned out. Chris would be arriving around 4pm. Alignment appointment was at 8am. Alignment takes less than 2 hours. I can then drive the car around town a bit, work out some bugs. Take it back home, finish 99 little projects, and then detail it, all before the highly expectant owner arrived. Great plan. Didn't work. That would be because the car spent 7 1/2 hours on the alignment rack. Yes, those wonderful SRT front knuckles were coming back to haunt me. I spent time in that workshop, modifying tie rods, all while an overly nervous dealership owner kept insisting that the service manager kick that 'non-employee' out of the hazardous work area. Thank you, Randy for running interference for me. At 3:30pm, the car rolled off the alignment rack. Chris drove up at that very moment. Phew.

Here's probably the only time a Shelby Dodge was ever parked on the lot at the former Cimino Brothers Dodge in Raton, NM:

Original GT40 undergoes full restoration

Want to build a small shelf for my room... anyone in da burg' got a power saw I can borrow for the weekend??

I will now attempt to outgun Goodspeed for the most verbose for-sale ad on the MM forums :lol: . Bascially if it wasn't for the fact that I'm looking into something a bit smaller, lighter, and RWD I'd be holding onto this thing because it's been a good car. not looking for a quick sale, just putting it out there.





$7,950

2005 Impreza 2.5RS, 72k miles and counting
VIN: on request
Clean CARFAX, no incidents outside of parking lot bumps, no flood damage. Title in hand (pending)

Specs:
- Crystal grey metallic
- 2.5RS, 165hp N/A boxer engine
- All wheel drive
- 4 wheel disks
- 5 speed
- 6 disc in-dash CD player/stereo
- PW, PL, A/C, ABS, Driver/Pass air bag, alarm, tilt
- Factory options
ÔÇóCenter armrest extension
- Sport Package
ÔÇó WRX ÔÇ£racingÔÇØ style seats
ÔÇó MOMO 3-spoke leather steering wheel
ÔÇó Color matched mirrors and side skirts
ÔÇó Fog light covers
ÔÇó 4.11 gearing (standard is 3.90)

History:
Adult owned, second owner car. The original owner bought the car new as his commuter, and took excellent care of the car as evidenced by service history and his own background as an enthusiast. I bought the car at 26k to use as a fun commuter and itÔÇÖs received excellent care in my hands as well a few tasteful upgrades. It sees about 300 miles a week and 80% of that is relaxed cruising at 70mph.

Mechanical condition:
Excellent. Driven gently when cold, no gear slamming, riding the clutch, launching, or nailing potholes. All services are taken care of with high quality OEM or better components, installed by either myself or local technicians that I trust. I have always investigated and/or fixed anything I sensed wrong with the car immediately.

Engine: Very strong for a 2.5 and returns 28+ mpg on the highway at a steady 70mph. It has only very mild bolt-on upgrades to add a little pep and help drivability while staying very reliable. The stock engine tune was pretty poor so it has been altered to run safely and powerfully on 93 octane fuel. If you would like I can load the stock tune back in and you can run whatever gas you like. The intake has received an OEM WRX duct and the exhaust sounds great but not too loud thanks to a borla header and catback. It has used synthetic oil since new and I have sent used oil samples to Blackstone labs for analysis on occasion ÔÇô they have returned with flying colors. It has used about 1 quart of oil per 5k miles since IÔÇÖve had it ÔÇô not unreasonable for a normal Subaru and way on the safe side of SubaruÔÇÖs own 1 quart per 1k mile cutoff point.

Transmission: shifts crisply and accurately. The transmission is filled with Subaru Extra-S synthetic transmission fluid and the rear diff is filled with mobil 1 75W90 synthetic. IÔÇÖm very, very particular about my shifting and clutch habits. I never ride the clutch or slip it needlessly and this may be why it still bites as hard as the day I got it. I never force my shifts and always rev-match my downshifts. The WC Lathewerks shift knob feels great and looks classy and the Kartboy short shifter is a nice improvement.

Brakes: linear, smooth, and plenty strong. The front pads are Hawk HPS, a great street pad that bites hard but stays noiseless and low dust. The fluid has been flushed with ATE Superblue.

Suspension: It rides stiffly and reacts very quickly thanks to an upgrade to STi struts, springs, and tophats. It tracks perfectly and has excellent grip. The alignment was set to maximize camber and minimize toe, and the rear sway bar was upgraded to 20mm unit from an early WRX to set the balance better in corners. IÔÇÖve added extra bracing in the form of cowl braces and strut tower bars. The struts are known to make clunking noises, but mine are greased annually and only the rears clunk lightly when first setting off in the morning in the winter. otherwise its bind and creak free. Potenza RE760 Sport tires were added last summer and are excellent all around performance tires.

Exterior:
There are some door dings and scratches from being in an urban environment this long. The passenger rear corner of the bumper has had some paint taken off from someone backing into the car when parked. The trunk has a scratch across it from a key or someone rubbing on it. The hood is brand new due to the original sustaining a large dent. The re-spray was only half-decent though and in some lighting will show blotchiness but itÔÇÖs not hugely noticeable unless youÔÇÖre close to it. The overall paint condition is decent and it sees frequent washing and waxing. I have added an old version 2.5RS badge to the trunklid because I like the looks, and RallyArmor mud flaps for a more rally-ish appearance and to protect the paint. A 1-1/4ÔÇØ trailer hitch is installed in the back which was never used but was intended for a bike rack.

Interior:
The interior is largely flawless. I have added some ÔÇ£STiÔÇØ cheapy headrest pillows and stretched the springs in the front seats slightly for a bit more comfort and a little more aggressive bolstering . The rear seat has been sat in maybe 5 times in my ownership. The trunk has had a 90ÔÇÖs impreza cargo net installed for much easier and convenient securing of groceries and what not. The stock 6-disc setup sounds very good and switches discs around without a problem.

Recent Maintenance:
- New Duralast Gold battery to replace the factory battery
- Oil change with 5w30 Synthetic and Purolator filter
- 205/55ÔÇô16 Potenza RE760 tires (not even 10k miles old)
- Superblue brake fluid flush
- OEM air filter
- Coolant change with Subaru conditioner additive

Modifications:
- Romraider 93 octane tune
- Borla unequal length header
- Borla 2.25ÔÇØ catback exhaust
- WRX intake duct
- Paranoid fabrications grounding kit
- 2004 STi struts/springs/tophats (no rear strut clunk, greased annually)
- 2002 WRX 20mm rear sway bar
- Solid aluminum cowl braces
- Front/rear STi-look strut tower bars
- Performance alignment (0 toe, -1.5 camber all around)
- Hawk HPS front pads
- 1st gen 2.5RS rear badge
- Hiddenhitch rear trailer hitch
- Kartboy short shifter
- WC Lathewerks shift knob
- STi headrests
- Trunk cargo net
- STi shift pattern decal on console
- RallyArmor ÔÇ£basicÔÇØ mud flaps
- Subaru anti-theft lugnuts

Included documentation and equipment:
- Original window sticker
- Repair Manual CD-ROM
- Full binder of every receipt from any major repair or purchase
- Excel spreadsheet tracking all maintenance logged as well as all modification installations and associated costs
- T70 torx bit for the transmission drain plug
- Lug nut key
- Wiring kit for the trailer hitch
- Extra Purolator oil filters and drain plug washers
- All Romraider tune files and tuning literature

Problems:
- Aforementioned hood respray
- Aforementioned rear bumper scar and trunk scratch
- Slight white stain on driver's seat left lower bolster and lower b-pillar trim.
- Tiny rust spot (pinhead sized) where paint chipped away on passenger rear door. Touch up paint would take care of it.
- It isnÔÇÖt really a problem but as with many imprezas, the transmission is a bit noisy. ThereÔÇÖs nothing mechanically wrong, its just how they are.

Really an excellent all around car, driven by someone who loves subarus. It needs nothing - i wouldn't hesitate to drive this thing across the country at a moment's notice. This would be a particularly great car for a younger person or college student looking for a fun, reliable car that can go almost anywhere. It has the same enjoyable chassis as the WRX but itÔÇÖs easier and cheaper to service and maintain but still fun to drive. These non-turbo Subarus have a reputation of being tanks and this car should last well on into the 200,000ÔÇÖs. Considering the carÔÇÖs history, upkeep, easy highway miles and plenty of nice upgrades I think the price is fair. IÔÇÖm open to any questions and can provide any pictures you might need.



MM DEAL:
- If a MMember finds or refers to me a buyer, I'll give you $50.00
- I'll throw in $100 to a one-way plane ticket to Atlanta

Just a heads-up, NASA's first track weekend is happening February 20/21 at VIR. They're doing the typical races they always do, plus a Circuitcross on Sunday the 21st.

More information about everything is available here.

Also... I've contacted Laura about workers. They have FOUR remaining spots open to work flag stations. I will be going down to flag, as will Mike D'Amico and Justin. We do not count toward the four other spots.

If you want to go, PLEASE PM me and give me your first/last name and email. I'll pass it along to Laura. If it's your first time, you will be working "for free" - though they still give you meal tickets and pay your hotel - and past that it's $165 for the weekend.

Please let me know ASAP, it's a good chance to hang out with people, see fast cars, and make some cash money.

Part of my severance was a 19" monitor :lol: and I'd like to hook it up. I had a spare PCI video card (Radeon 7500, I think) but evidently it's not Vista64 compatible because none of the drivers work. Anyone have a spare PCI card they're willing to part with? It doesn't need dual output or anything fancy like that. I have a dual PCI and dual AGP if you're interested in trade.

As I'm sure you're all aware, the recent earthquake in Haiti has totally leveled that island nation. BEFORE the earthquake things were total shit there. People were baking literal mud cookies and eating them just to fill their stomachs. They had nothing, one of the poorest countries on earth (and most certainly the poorest on the West) and then they get struck by one of the worst disasters in recent history. Part of the reason the devastation in the urban areas was so bad is that they have NO natural resources whatsoever. The country literally has no trees, as Papa Doc cut 'em all down so all their buildings are made of shitty sand concrete.

My parents have carried a torch for Haiti for many years, as some of you know. Right before the earthquake they were there at an orphanage in LaJeune, my father installing solar panels for electricity (the only source they have other than a diesel generator) and my mother running a health clinic for the orphans there. The day after they landed safely in the US, the earthquake struck.

My parents then have taken in a family of refugees. A Mother & Father, and their two children. Those of you who know my parents know they are not people of means, but they would give their last dime to help someone in need, and these people who had little to begin with now have literally the clothes on their backs.

Rex's Mom Wrote:Dear Friends and Fam, Here's the scoop on what we're going through here. Henry and I just put out $2600.00 for airline tickets to bring Jean, Emilie and the two children to our home in Harrisonburg for an undetermined amount of time. We had to buy round trip tickets because of immigration even though the PAP airport isn't even open yet.

We've been asked many times about how "others" can help ~ Here's our needs:
Our expenses will go up for food and utilities and all the rest. I'll leave that open ended.

Our family will grow from two to six and we need a "cheap" vehicle that will hold six. Henry put a notice on Craigslist, but no hits yet. To those receiving this locally, I need a booster seat and car seat for the car by Friday.

The orphanage in LaJeune has grown from 26 to 50 or more in a week. Not necessarily with children either. Family and Christians from "sister churches" have all headed to the mountains after losing everything. Money is desperately needed to help feed and house
these refugees.

The churches in PAP are also in need for rebuilding and food plus other necessities. I hate to say it, but it's all about money.

I'm asking each of you that receive this to pray about how you can help or how God would have you to help. Even if it's praying that is enough! I know most of you will not be able to help financially, but prayers count for much if not everything!!

This is for information of what's happening. I just wanted you all to know.

On a wonderful note, we left two totes of meds and even suture kits in LaJeune. As God would have it, they were picked up today by rescue teams that are doing medical work on refugees in the area. God is so good!

Love you all, Janet/Mom