Hi All,

Finally got my M3 detailed by Dan K at Premier Shine. Most of you already know he's the man at detailing for MM, but this just reinforces the fact. Took these pictures kinda quick as the sun was setting. Pics just don't do it justice... I really need to invest in a DSLR someday.

PREPARE FOR THE SCROLLLLLLLL

This thread may not go somewhere... we'll see.

This is what appears to be a gravel track in someone's back yard just north of Leesburg?

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.17448,-77.520488&hl=en&ll=39.174073,-77.520239&spn=0.007003,0.009645&sll=39.173266,-77.520776&sspn=0.007003,0.009645&vpsrc=6&t=h&z=17">http://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.17448,-77.520488&hl=en&ll=39.174073,-77.520239&spn=0.007003,0.009645&sll=39.173266,-77.520776&sspn=0.007003,0.009645&vpsrc=6&t=h&z=17</a><!-- m -->

Move NW of that for something else... different.

Figured someone here might want it before I list it on CL. I've had it for years and it's been used MAYBE a dozen times.

Craftsman 16 gallon Wet-Dry Vac
-6.0 Peak hp
-170 mph bjs
-all attachments included
-extra air filter included

$50 pick up in 20148

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00917761000P?prdNo=1">http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00917761000P?prdNo=1</a><!-- m -->

All 5 factory TJ alloys with minor scratches, one with minor curb rash....


I'm sure someone will say they are 5.5 inch backspacing... but the rulers dont lie! 5 3/8 inch backspace


here is some of the damage!




Now for all the cool stuff... <3






The monster says TREEFIDDY!

Thats right folks... $350 obo

Location: Richmond
Means of contact: PM/Email
Price: $250 / MM PRICE $200

Description: DC 4-2-1 Header for 94-99 GSR. This was included, uninstalled on the car I picked up from a friend. However when I went to install it last night I realized its to short. I was trying to install it on my B18B1 EG Hatch. I dont want to deal with having an extension welded on or anything so im going to sell and buy the right header. I hate to do it, especially since I just wrapped this thing in header wrap and it turned out pretty good IMO. It was also sprayed with the DEI black silicon spray to help seal the header wrap.

Make me offers, I know these go for around $275-300 new and unwrapped, so I figure $250 is fair for a wrapped header.

Open to trade assuming you have a header I can use. Otherwise no trades.

Wrapping the header:




Sprayed:

Have any of you BMW guys heard about this yet? (Flame suit on if I am light yearz behind)

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.thedetroitbureau.com/2011/08/bmw-confirms-diesel-m-high-performance-engine-to-find-numerous-other-applications/">http://www.thedetroitbureau.com/2011/08/bmw-confirms-diesel-m-high-performance-engine-to-find-numerous-other-applications/</a><!-- m -->

Quote:BMW Confirms Diesel-M, High-Performance Engine to Find Numerous Other Applications

BMW's new M5 will soon get a diesel-powered companion, this one using a triple-turbo diesel, the first oil-burner to bear the vaunted "M" badge.

BMW will introduce a new high-performance diesel-powered 5-Series model next spring that will expand the German makerÔÇÖs vaunted M division, TheDetroitBureau.com has confirmed, with the triple-turbo V-8 oil-burner set to also be used in a variety of other BMW products, likely including its X-series sport-activity vehicles.

Rumors of the diesel M have been circulating for several weeks, but TheDetroitBureau.com has confirmed details with a variety of BMW sources who say the maker wants to prove out the potential of the high-mileage technology ÔÇô taking advantage of a variety of new technologies, including the unusual triple-turbocharging system meant to eliminate even the most minor turbo lag.


The new model is likely to get the unusual designation of either BMW 550dM or 550dXM, the latter referring to its all-wheel-drive system. With rare exception, most models produced by the Bavarian makerÔÇÖs performance sub-brand flash the vaunted ÔÇ£MÔÇØ first and foremost. But the alternative nomenclature would reflect the unusual powertrain under the hood of the 5-Series BMW.

The 3.0-liter straight-six diesel will use a small turbo to instantly build boost for launch, two larger twin-scroll turbochargers then spooling up for higher-speed performance. The basic engine is the same as the current BMW 3.0-liter diesel but with significant modifications, including a new cylinder head. It will make use of a variety of advanced technologies, including direct injection and BMWÔÇÖs Valvetronic system, designed to optimize the function of intake and exhaust engine valves.

Sources tell TheDetroitBureau.com that the 550dM will deliver slightly less horsepower than the new gas-powered BMW M5, which makes 560 ponies. Final numbers will likely be in the 500 to 550 range. Torque, meanwhile, will well exceed the 500 lb-ft of the new M5, and could push north of 650 lb-ft.

To handle those tire-spinning forces, ÔÇ£You have to go to all-wheel-drive,ÔÇØ explained one senior BMW official, ÔÇ£otherwise youÔÇÖll be spinning your tires all day.ÔÇØ

(For a first look at the next-gen BMW M5, Click Here.)

While several makers have demonstrated the potential for diesel power on the track, the move to put it into a high-performance street car is a significant breakthrough. Mercedes-Benz briefly offered a diesel model wearing its AMG badge but that lasted only a year on the market. BMW has long considered the option but it took several significant developments for the companyÔÇÖs comfort level to reach the necessary threshold.

ÔÇ£Diesel technology has come a long way in the last five years,ÔÇØ said one BMW executive, adding that the maker also had to be certain buyers would be able to get the necessary quality of diesel fuel in any market ÔÇô notably including the U.S. ÔÇô where the 550dM will be sold.

For the record, M brand global marketing manager Brian Watts confirmed only that the maker is looking at a diesel M car because it ÔÇ£certainly has some interesting potential.ÔÇØ He stressed that the review is ÔÇ£not finished.ÔÇØ But other insiders said only the final details, such as performance specifications ÔÇô and the final brand nomenclature ÔÇô have yet to be firmed up, with the new diesel muscle car due for a reveal next spring, very likely with an unveiling at a major auto show like the Geneva Motor Show.

The engine is intended to find applications beyond the 5-series M edition, sources agree. It is designed to fit in a variety of additional BMW products and would most likely show up next in one or more of the makerÔÇÖs X-Series Sport-Activity Vehicles, such as the X5 or X6. But a version of the 550d engine might also be melded with the makerÔÇÖs flagship 7-Series sedan ÔÇ£a year or more later,ÔÇØ said a source.

BMW officials say they hope to steal a march on competitors ÔÇô but, said one, ÔÇ£I expect to see others follow,ÔÇØ a reference to both Mercedes and Audi. The executive said he was particularly surprised that the latter German brand had not moved into the diesel performance segment more quickly, as it would play off AudiÔÇÖs link to diesel power. The maker has dominated the Le Mans endurance series for much of the past decade with its various diesel-powered race cars.

Allora ragazzi,

Oct. 1st is our homecoming game v. Richmond and I'm hoping that some alumni can make it down/up/around/back to Harrisonburg to celebrate 100 years of alumni (decent cause right?). If one of you can somehow pull off a spot(or several) on Godwin Lawn by the stadium. Otherwise, near the tennis courts is ok.

Quote:What: Alumni Tailgate | Where: Godwin Field | When: TBA

Celebrate Homecoming and leave the cooking to us! Reconnect with all your friends in the ultimate gameday experience of a JMU tailgate. Family-friendly entertainment includes music, food and a moonbounce for the kids. Adult ticket prices are $15 and child tickets (ages 3-10) are $8. All children under the age of three are free. Price includes all you can eat and drink, kids activities and a DJ.

Doubt any of you fools want this ish.

FS: SAGA Peak/Warning Oil Temp 60mm gauge

Lights up white/Amberish-Red, has warning light and buzzer.

Never installed that I can tell, picked this up in a trade with DJ, and being the ricer I am I want to go ahead and get a matching Prosport gauge, like my WT and OP.

$50

EBAY IMAGE LINKED, will post actual pics upon request.

I am going to be installing this Limited slip diff in my Challenger later this week or early next and I was wondering if anyone in MM still has a hookup on Redline or Royal Purple gear oil? Correct me if I am wrong but you don't need limited slip additives with either of those do you? It is a Dana Power-Lok in a Chrysler 8 3/4 from a 69 Dodge Coronet if you have an application guide.

So. A lot of us old fogey-ass Alumni now own homes. And a lot of those homes have garages.

Except for RJ's. Let's all take a moment to chuckle to ourselves at his misfortune.

Alright. So here's how you do it. The first bit, anyway. I'm balls deep into this motherfucker, so...

MM!
Grab my dick!
ADVENTURE!


What you'll need:

1 Good metal scraper:

1 Good push broom. (you need this shit for your garage anyhow)

For this particular task, a combo broom/squeegee might be helpful
1 Shop-vac. The lowes 20 dolla "shop vac on a bucket" that I've got actually works surprisingly well.
1 Big-ass bucket of solvent. A half'n'half mix of simple green should do the trick

(If your father in law is an ex concrete guy, he might give you a 5 gallon bucket labeled "solvent". Just use that.)
Enough epoxy to do your garage. I got a two car carage, so I need 2 of 'em.

NOTE: If you go to lowes/home depot to get this, they can tint it any number of colors.
1 garden hose, and water source

1 Long handled paint roller with a 3/8 nap

1 Trim Brush
1 Paint Tray
Optional: Some JBWeld.
Optional: Extra "style flakes

Step 0 (Optional): Reinforce that goddamn broom:
I actually do this with damn near every long-handled tool I will be using. Unscrew/remove the handle from the object. Mix up some JBWeld, spread that shit aaaaaall over the threaded part of the handle, then screw that mother in and let it sit over night. That bitch ain't gonna come loose until judgement day! All my life, when I would sweep out my dad's garage, the fucking handle would screw itself loose as I was sweeping and then I'd have to take a minute to screw it back in tight, so it wouldn't happen again. WHAT NOW, PUSHBROOM?

Step 1: Get all your shit out of your garage:
Do you have a bunch of shit in your garage already? You done fucked up, son! Get it all out! Yeah, all of it!

Hey, whose fucking bike? What are those Rusty's Offroad 6.5" lift coils doing in there? Get that shit out of the garage! Garage needs to be empty. Here's how you'll know when you're done: Take a look around your garage. Is there shit in it? If yes, you're not done! Get that shit out of your garage. If there's no shit, proceed to Step 2.

Step 2: Sweep.
Your ass is cinderella and your garage, even if brand fucking new, is covered in dirt. Sweep it all out into your driveway.

Step 3: Sweep it again.
I didn't stutter, bitch.

Step 4: Vacuum out the relief cuts.
I actually ran my scraper into the relief cuts to get all the accumulated dirt out. If your garage has any size to it at all, it'll have 2 (or more) cuts lengthwise and widthwise to give the concrete someplace to "crack" as it settles. It also gives a giant ditch for dirt to accumulate. Get it out!

Step 5: Skeet that Solvent all over the floor
If your garage ISN'T brand new, you'll have some stains. In my case, I had stains, old chewing gum, rotten cardboard, paint, and god knows what on my floor. Pour/spray your solvent/degreaser on your floor, and move it around with your pushbroom. Make sure it stays wet long enough to lift material off the surface. It is highly recommended that you wear close toed shoes for this step. OTOH, that burning sensation lets you know it's working!

Step 6: Scrape
While the solvent is doing it's chemical de-bonding dance, it's time to help it out with a little physical leverage. Go over every stain you see, just giving it a good couple of passes.Guess what! You're probably still gonna have stains. The staining agent has seeped into the concrete (which, despite being hard as fuck, is actually pretty porous) and will be stained FOR EVAR. But that's probably why you're doing epoxy to begin with.

Step 7: Wash that shit off.
Get your hose, and soak down your garage floor, Spray as much of the degreaser off as you can get out of the garage with the water pressure, maybe even a pressure washer would help here. Once you've done that, sweep/squeegee all the water out. Even though you swept twice, a bunch of dirt is going to come with it.


Step 8: Spray your dog with water for being a dipshit and walking on your clean garage floor

That's solvent, moron!

Step 9: Wait to dry.
Have a beer.

Step 10: Sweep again.
Yeah, that's right. You swept twice, fucking brushed that shit out, and you'll still pick up dirt with your broom.
Dirt, 100000x magnification:


Step 11: Wait 24 hours for it to seriously dry.
Remember what I said about concrete being porous? Have more beers.

Part Deux, tomorrow.

Also, jeep parts lolol:


DAY 2: Dundundunnnn

This day is a lot like day one, only shorter.

Step 12: Etchasketch!
Here, you'll need the etcher that came with your kit. If you watch the instructional DVD (and wtf do you need do that for, you've got Rexy!) it'll tell you when you use the etcher to have long pants, rubber boots, rubber gloves, and birth control goggles.

You meant hiking boots and gym shorts, right?

So first step is to get your nice dry garage soaking wet again. Just spray your hose all over, getting the whole thing saturated, starting in the front, and ending in the back. (Front here, being the garage door end of the garage). So the back of the garage should be the wettest. So now mix your etcher according to the instructions with 3 parts water in a plant watering can.

LOL, I mean poke holes in the seal of the concentrate and "salt" the wet floor with it, swishing it around with your broom. Do I look like the kind of motherfucker who has a watering can? And even if I did, would I put something that was sure to be PLANT POISON in it? Ah, no. Not this cat.

Anyway, so after you've applied your "single stage etcher", swish it around with your broom, scrubbing especially at your stains, or any place where the water seemed in a bigger hurry to dry,. work in quadrants, from the back to the front.
----Back----
--Q1---Q2--
--Q3---Q4--
----Door-----
Do Q1, then Q2, then you'll probably need to re-wet Q3 and Q4 before you do those. Scrub all your quads, then start rinsing.

Here's the thing, if your etcher doesn't "foam", you're fucked, because you've already got some kind of sealant on your concrete that needs to be removed before you proceed. I don't know how to do this. I imagine it involves sorcery or devil worship or something.

Anyway, Rinse rinse rinse, until you don't get any more suds. Then, get your squeegee broom and squeegee out all the water, doing it in quadrants again. Your garage will dry faster this way, because squeegees do a really good job getting rid of water. It's, like, what they were designed to do or something. (Not just be a fun word to say.)

Now you get to wait another 24 hours before you can put your epoxy down. For the purposes of this "tutorial" though, you'll have to wait until friday friday gotta get down on friday.


Day Whatthefuckever

Time to Paint!
Time it'll take you for a 2 car garage: 1 hour, 45 minutes.

Step 13: Realize you fucked up your flake color and run back to Lowes in your fuckin' pajamas to exchange them
Even though I tinted my shit "royal blue" the flakes in my kit were tan. Now, I am the idiot here, but still...the guy at the paint booth could have at least said 'Hey man, you sure you want these tan flakes with your blue paint?"

Step 14: Mix the activator with your FIRST can of Epoxy
You'll need to stir it for 3 minutes, then

Step 15: Wait 20 minutes for the epoxy to activate
This is temperature sensitive, so it might be 20 minutes, might be more, might be less. There are instructions in your box.

Unless your lowes is less than 5 miles away, make sure you do 13 before 14, or you'll risk getting a ticket driving like your ass is on fire to lowes to exchange the flakes before your bucket of paint turns completely solid.

Step 16: Paint Q1 of your trim
Paint about 1/4 the way around your garage on the edge with your trim brush. You won't be able to get in there well enough with a roller, so about the width of your brush will cover what you need.

Step 17: Paint a 2X6 section of Q1
You don't want to paint a larger section than that, or you won't be able to reach for your flakes.
About dis big:


Step 18: Skeet your flakes on the 2X6 section of Q1
They come in like a red pepper flake shaker, but instead of turning it upside down and shakin it like a polaroid piiiitchaaa, I found that if you sort of flick your wrist with the bottle tilted up, you get a better shake. Just, you know, cast magic missile at the floor, and you'll get it.

Also worth noting, the flakes settle during shipping, so when you first open a bottle, you'll get a lot of "dust sized" flakes. So give your bottles a shake/stir before you start "salting" the floor. Also, when salting, make sure you leave some "overlap" for your next 2X6 stripe, so you don't end up painting over the flakes.

Step 19: Repeat 17 and 18 until your fucking garage is covered.
I went Q1, Q3, Q2, Q4. The instructions suggest Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4. Just make sure you think it through and don't paint yourself into a corner. When you've got about 1/8 of a can of epoxy left (and a "full" paint tray), go ahead and mix up your other can, so it can "activate" while you finish out the first can.

Step 20: Let dry
Don't walk on that shit for 48 hours. Leave the garage door open if you can.

Step 21: Enjoy your fucking baller garage floor.




Old'n'busted (but clean!):


Teh New Hotness:


Also, a word on flakes. I went apeshit with the flakes:

In my 2 car garage, I used all of one gallon of paint, about a quarter of the second gallon...and three bottles of flakes. Two bottles came with the kit, one bottle I bought. (8 dolla) I think it looks nice, but some people may not like it so "flakey".