I've done this event a few times, and it's a great way to bridge the gap between autocross and track. It is timed, though, so beware the red mist! :twisted:

You run a solo-style single lap, re-queue, and repeat - you'll get about 10 laps in total. One lap at a times mean both street tires and brakes should be up to the task. You do not have to work, but you do have to bring your own helmet. It's $150.

Clicky.

I'm not entirely sure that I'm free that weekend, but if I am, I'm registering.

Full disclosure: shit's Mother's Day.

2012 Aston Martin Vantage.

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The guy is so douchey and you want him to be wrong, but he just isn't.

Now I know you don't by an Aston Martin for practicality, but I still assumed they were well thought out pieces of machinery.

With a move of one of our teammates to Florida (we are located in Northern Virginia), another teammate buying a house, and the final teammate (me) trying to refocus priorities; we are looking to sell our Chump Car RX7.

This particular RX7 has a "fresh" (used) motor in it that does not consume anything (but the usual oil that we premeasure and put in the fuel as per typical for a rotary). It comes fully caged/harnessed/seat/kill swithch/fire bottle and everything ready to go. It already has the prerequisite number panels and lighting for night enduros. It is on tokico shocks and eibach springs with camber plates. Extremely easy on tires. Only gone through one set in 3 races with chump car, same with the brakes. Did I mention we have 2 sets of wheels/tires for it, tons of spare parts, including 2 spare motors we picked up (one unknown, one drinks a bit of coolant), good transmission, spare rotors/pads/plugs/maf/basically another car.
Includes open differential but currently has a welded LSD in the back. Car runs great, but logistics are a bit harder now, so we decided to see how things go selling her. As far as cooling, the car runs extremely well, we have a massive radiator and a good oil cooler with fresh lines on it.

$6,500 or best offer. This is "come pick it up and race next weekend" shape. It was always garaged and then transported in an enclosed trailer. Currently in a garage in Manassas, VA at one of our teammates home. Feel free to contact me at Fitzpadj at gmail

So I'm headed down to Richmond tonight, uhaul trailer in tow to look at a SV650 tomorrow.

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Few details after a phone call:

Been dropped 1 once and low-sided once. First time it was knocked over by a storm onto it's right side and he went through insurance and had everything replaced by Ultimate Cycle in Midlothian, Va.

It was low-sided on the left and had everything replaced by Ultimate Cycle as well to include the fork bottoms.

About 2,000 miles on tires and oil had been changed every season. Mainly selling to gather money for a house. Guy seemed very straight forward and he's the original owner.

I'm thinking ~$3100 is tops I'll go on it.

I reached out to G. but does anyone have some additional suggestions on properly securing the bike in the trailer?

Who has/had one of these? Going to check out an 04 with 270k on the clock. I know it's a lot but it will be used as our tow rig to and from the track 7-10 times a year.

What do I need to look for? I'm going to check the transmission for any slipping, brake lines, rear springs, look for a 5th wheel. It looks pretty clean for the price they are asking. Also going to ask about injectors/filter.

I'm going to do some quick research tonight, but figured somebody on here has some knowledge.

So we ordered our first Ram 1500 with the 3.0L EcoDiesel engine. Looking at 28MPG in a 4x4 crew cab. :thumbup: Do you guys think this light duty diesel thing will take off? I am thinking and hoping it will. Nissan and Toyota have both announced they will be using the 5.0L Cummins V8 in their trucks and I am sure Chevy and Ford will have something coming down the pike soon.



The 3.0L V6 engine is pretty sweet, built by VM in Italy (same company that made the diesel for the Liberty) and common rail injected by Bosch. Turbo is a single variable vane Garrett. Produces 230hp at 3600 rpm and 405 lbs/ft at 1800-2600 rpm. Currently slated for use in the 1500 RAM and Jeep Grand Cherokee. I hope to see it in the Chrysler Town & Country and Jeep Wrangler. I think not having the Cummins name on the RAM could have been a mistake but when you consider what they were going for it makes more sense. People who want a Cummins RAM will buy a 2500-3500 for the 6.7, the people buying the 1500 diesel want MPG. The 5.0 Cummins will not be a fuel economy leader in the half ton segment. It will give Toyota and Nissan much needed power and towing capacity for their half tons, something RAM doesn't have an issue with. Diesel Power Magazine said in testing they got 28.8mpg out of the EcoDiesel 1500. So, what do you guys think? Diesel is a $2350 option and obviously the fuel costs more, think people will go for it? :dunno:

Hey guys! I've got the itch. I REALLY want a car. DDing a truck is awful, and since I plan on making this a trail rig, I can't rely on this. I'd love better gas mileage, I'd love to be able to take turns without feeling like I'm going to flip, I'd love a TRUNK.I also want something that's a little cheaper to go back and forth to JMU and work with and cheap to insure. Hopefully I can drop my truck down from $500 quarterly, which is insane.

I also want to be able to go with MM to Auto-crosses and track days and stuff and drive. I do not like driving other people's cars. I figure I can save up a little over $3000 by the end of the summer if I work my ass off.

I want something RWD, cheap, easy to maintain, gas mileage doesn't really matter as long as it's better than 20, which is the highest I'll ever get in mine.

I'm thinking either a 944 or a Miata. I'm leaning towards miatas. A 944 would be my dream, but the reliability just is not there. I don't have much money cushion now, but I just got moved up to serving at work, so I see more money in my future.

What should I look for in a miata? I'm sure Jake should chime in here. Should I try to find a 94 with the 1.8, or does it matter? I'm around 6'2" with shoes on; how well will I fit? I would go test drive one right now, but there aren't any local that I know of, and what's the point if I won't have the money forever?

I would put this in WTB, but I'm not buying just yet.

If anyone says E30, I'll punch you in the dick. Thanks!

Stephanie bought a CX-9 and I'm using her Corolla as a daily now, so this one has to go. I doubt there will be any interest here, but if anyone knows someone who wants a cheap beater that doesn't need any critical mechanical work.....

1993 Saturn SL
Unknown Miles (most likely in the range of 72,000 for the 40,000th time from what the previous owner told me)

The Good:
33+ MPG
Tons of maintainance and new parts put on by previous owner:
New Cat-back exhaust
4x Michelin AS tires with 80%+ tread
All new brake lines
New head-unit w/ 4 new speakers
All basic maintenance up to date (new plugs, wires, thermostat and serpentine belt within the past year).


The Bad:
Headliner is sagging
Typical scratches / scrapes in the paint associated with a car that spent 20 years in Arlington

The Ugly
AC is leaking from the compressor and both fill ports, so it should be considered non-functional
Exhaust has a pinhole leak in the down-pipe - front down-pipe prior to cat is original and needs replacement ($90 part)

The car runs and drives great - its transmission and engine need nothing. Starts right up and drives fine whether it's 0 or 100 degrees outside. It would make a great beater for someone - it really doesn't need any work just so long as you can live with no AC.

$1000 for MMers

This belongs to a friend of mine from college, who also considered joining MM once upon a time and kinda never did. He did make an intro thread, here:

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The car in question is the same one from the thread. It's an '00 Prelude with the 2.2L, 5-speed. White on gray.

Ryan had the timing belt and water pump done last year sometime, and recently texted me to say that the car puked five quarts of oil over the course of a six-mile drive. hock: The shop he had it towed to claims the timing cover needs to come off and a lot of seals are busted. And, it's apparently leaking coolant from the water pump area.

Ryan Wrote:Shop says the timing belt job I had done a few years back needs to be redone b/c all the seals are pouring out oil... they quoted me at around $2600 for a full timing belt job (including labor and new parts) as well as transmission fluid change, and some other little things. They also noted that the water pump was leaking coolant, which was also replaced with the previous timing belt job.

All they know is that the majority of oil is coming from under the timing belt cover - would take labor to figure out actual leak and at that point, might as well replace it all once engine is apart. Also, with coolant leaking, I think water pump would be only source of coolant in that area.

So heres my car when I first got it...came from my dad, with only 68k miles on it. Stock Stock Stock.

2.2L Flat 4, pushing about 150hp at the crank. No power windows, no power locks. 2 speakers. 5 speed manual. When my dad got this car, it was the bare bone most stripped down version you could buy.


Slow as hell, and still is... First time I went to do donuts after it had rained.



About 4 months after getting the car under my name, A JMU girl was traveling at 50mph on reservoir st. and didn't see I had stopped at the stop light and slammed into me so hard I was pushed into the car in front of me. Yay! Both my parents were in my car at the time, my dad in the passenger seat and my mom in the back. My dad seemed fine but my mom's neck was hurting really bad. To this day she's still going through physical therapy and what not. Pictures below are of the wreck, and yes the car was totaled by the insurance company.




Car had frame damage, so got a few estimates... apparently shops wanted upwards of $6000 to do a frame pull and new bumpers. Nope... found a guy named Jason Christ in Broadway who does bodywork on the side... Fixed/painted/filled/frame pulled all for $1000. Yup thats a bargain. If anyone needs some bodywork done, let me know and Ill get you his number. See below the work he has done.

New front bumper and paint


Reddish knob


Rear end at Reddish


So put the roof rack back on, and re attached the mudlfaps after everything was done.

Next came the light bar!! ibjeepin95 on the MM forum, Colton Ringgold welded up some electrical conduit, and formed up a light bar.


Then the mounted product


Thats all I've done to it for now... Enjoy some more pictures! Any suggestions on what I should do next? Donations for a turbo are also accepted!!








And Brian Ripley Photography behind the lens: