I didn't see a thread on this already so who's in? Who wants to split a hotel room?


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Hello there MM,

Over the last three days (27 hours total) I have had the opportunity to work on a 91 Acura NSX that has been converted and modified over many years into a Type R replica. The level of detail that went into the conversion is amazing. The car features a larger single turbo (T67) running low boost- 505 horses on the dyno.
The owner has been a great client to work with and since last fall him and I have been discussing the process I would take to carry out the detail.
The detail took 27 hours to complete over three days and him and I still have plans in the future (Swissvax application) including an extremely thorough and regular maintenance schedule.

On with the detail- prepare for major scroll guys

Products/ tools used:

Products:
CG Maxi Sudz 2
CG Citrus Wash and Clear
Dawn Concentrate
Sonax FE wheel cleaner
Bleche White sidewall cleaner
Megs APC
Carpro Iron X
Uber Fine Clay
Leather Masters Suede/ Alcantara foam cleaner
DI Aggressive Clay
ONR
Tarminator
P21s Polishing Soap
Eagle One Nevr Dull wadding
Sonax Glass Cleaner
Zaino Z12 Glass polish
303 Aerospace Protectant
Adams VRT dressing
Folex Spot treatment
Megs 105
Menzerna Power Finish
Menzerna Super Finish
Menzerna 85rd
IPA 30%
Menzerna Powerlock
CG JetSeal 109

Tools:
3 Wool wash mitts
SV brushes- wheel, Pneu
Uber Spoke wheel brush
0000 steel whool
Ridgid shopvac
PC air compressor
3000 grit paper
Megs sanding block
Flex DA
PC DA
Various backing plates
Surbuf R series MF pads
Uber Green foam
Uber Orange foam
Uber yellow foam
Lake Country White foam
LC 3 in. yellow foam
LC 3 in. orange foam

Total time- 27 hours over 3 days

Wheels before:



Headlight defects:




Before: Under front hood and bay:



The underside of the carbon fiber hood had some nice oxidization and defects...more on that later



Visible Paint defects- swirling etc. viewable in sun






EXTREMELY soft pillars before:




Same soft paint found on roof, and spolier:








Motor before:



Exhaust system before: More on that later




First up- motor cleaning
ONR with a designated SV wheel brush used here



Blown dry with the leaf blower as well as the air compressor


Front end bay washed with ONR and Megs APC



Sonax FE on the wheels





The body was then pre-rinsed with ONR, left to dwell and then an application of Iron X was sprayed on around the entire exterior








LSP still present- owner uses Zaino very often



To strip- Dawn and CG Citrus wash and clear


Two bucket method then carried out 3 times to clear as much LSP as possible



There was considerable overspray on the door jambs that the owner had concerns about- Aggressive clay used here



The car was then clayed with Uber fine clay using ONR as a lube and then re washed for the 3rd time- pulled inside to dry

First thing to tackle- the water spotted and sad looking exhaust system



After an hour and P21s soap:









HELLO TURBO!



Paint correction time- 1st and 2nd day- 20 hours total

****Spotting paint defects was easy to do by eye however my Nikon SLR had trouble- Apologies for no before and after paint correction pics******* the pearl white paint was tricky!

Random sanding marks present


The process:

- add Surbuff R series pad to 105 as well

The finish was compounded with Megs 105 and a yellow cutting pad or a Surbuff Pad via my Porter Cable. Finished down with Menzerna Power finish on an orange pad, finished down even more with Menzerna Super Finish (106fa) on a green pad and finally jeweled out with Menzerna 85rd- IPA wipedowns performed in-between each step of course.

Coming along well



Surbuff R series pads used on rear decklid as well as areas where sanding marks were present


Spolier before:


After:




Driver side of spoiler:

After:



Spoiler coming along well:


Thought this was a cool shot


Tailights before:



After:




Rear bumper dialed in


Correction coming along well


The owners personal mechanic stopped by late that night to remove the wheels and put the car up on stands so that I could access the wheels more in depth and the wheel wells and coils too.



Iron X doing its thing on the barrels




After letting dwell and agitated after 10 minutes, the wheels were rinsed and brought inside


Multiple tar spots in barrel






The tar spots were heated with a heat gun one at a time and treated with Tarminator- here is a shot of the tar melting

Plastic razor blade used to pick and remove tar spots:


After the barrels were dried I then clayed the barrels with my designated wheel clay


Wheels dried and dialed in


Jetseal 109 applied to wheels- barrel and face




With the wheels off I could then focus on degreasing the Coils and various pieces in the wells:


Before

After



Pillar Correction


Mirror before





Mirror after:


The CF engine cover was swirled and was pretty dull- there were also too spots where some sort of scuffing/oxidation existed
- one pass with Menzerna Power finish on a 3 inch yellow pad made quick work of the defects
Before:

After:


Notice line up by window showing before and after polishing:


Near the end of Day two and after 20 hours of paint correction I focused more on getting the door jambs which containted a significiant amount of paint overspray dialed in.

Wetsanded with 3000 grit here, followed up by hand polishing and PC polishing with a yellow pad- Megs 105




Paper sitting in bucket full of warm water for 15 min.





After:




The Recaro buckets had suede inserts- these were removed- blown with compressed air and vacuumed with a brush attachment.
Leather Masters suede/alcantara cleaner used here with a damp MF towel- left to dry overnight.




Owner had requested the sticker from the window tint to be removed

Heated on low heat with heat gun

MF towel dampened with 3M adhesive remover left over sticker for 5 minutes removed and plastic razor blade used to tremove sticker



Zaino Z12 clear view glass polish applied via Flex DA and a Uber orange foam pad


Wheels wiped down after sealant hazed and waiting to be put back on the beast


Brand new Black pad to apply sealant used on this one:


Mechanic came back over at end of night 2 to put wheels back on

In garage at end of night 2 letting Menzerna Powerlock to sit overnight:





Day 3- wrapping up

last bit of polishing to focus on was under front hood (remember hazed and scuffed CF before pics in beginning?)

Before:



During Polishing- notice left/ right split




Right section after:




Top portion after


Left and right done


303 protectant applied to all trim/ weatherstripping:
before:

50/50







Glass was cleaned inside and out with Sonax Glass cleaner, tires dressed with adams VRT dressing, interior vacuumed, mats shampooed and extracted and a quick Megs APC wipedown in interior.

Trunk mat had loose strings around logo- not good.





AND NOW THE AFTERS:






















































































Thanks for looking!
- Dan K

Anyone want to buy or... borrow these for a track weekend? They're in really great shape, kept them in the garage this winter, and I'd be willing to entertain offers. I really don't want to sell them, it took me forever to find them, but I don't plan on having another E36 anytime soon. Two have a little guardrail rash now. Currently shod with Toyo track tires (888s I think) that have a couple weekends left in them. I do have the brand-new-looking centercaps too.



The worst one:


As you can see, they kept the car on RAILS!   :wink:

Long winded story short, my long tube headers come down to the midpipe at a slightly off angle, and I haven't been able to get them to not rattle using the crappy ass eBay clamps. If you want to know more than that, I wrote the whole thing out here: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthr...p?t=605479, but it's neither exciting or particularly interesting.

What I need is a shop in NOVA, preferably near Fairfax or Ashburn, that is willing to do a little backyard engineering to make my midpipe fit the headers. Either by bending whats there to the right angle, or cutting and redoing the top part of the mid-pipe and clamping it up. Dropping the mid-pipe is (relatively) easy, and I've had resonators cut out and replaced with pipes for about $100 before. I can't see any reason this should take more than 2-2.5 shop hours so I'm not going to pay someone $400 for it.

Any suggestions or places you've had good experiences up here? Fanks.

I finally got photos taken in decent lighting of my new DD, so now I can make a project thread. Woohoo!

So, I can't introduce Green Hell without first mentioning Blurple. In a half-priced-margarita-induced hangover on a Saturday morning, Joey and I found ourselves in Ashburn, looking at a 1996 328i sport package sedan. It was a cool color combination, Montreal Blue (aka, blurple) on Dove Gray. And it was a sport pack, with the good seats! And it was only $1,000!



...and it had rust. Rust that I thought I could fix. Rust that, when I got home and examined the car more closely post-haze, was far beyond what I wanted to take on as a project. I quickly said "oh, shit, what have I done" and put the car back on Craigslist after throwing $400 in parts at it (pads/rotors/battery/rear shocks). I flipped it and got my money back - a large black man named Nigel rode the Metro from Maryland to buy it... and plans on driving it to Georgia. With a rusty shock tower. Yes, really.

So, after owning Blurple for eight days (if anyone is curious, it cost me $4.67 to insure it for that time), I sold it and also sold the E34. Suddenly, the "new DD because Jake is tired of DDing a 21-year-old car" search was on.

I found this car up in Maryland and jumped on it. It's a 1995 325i, sport package. I insisted I didn't want another black car... in an ironic twist, this car was originally black. It was repainted at a BMW dealership about four years ago, and is now Oxford Green. So, I have an Oxford on Black sport sedan, which is apparently rare. Probably because they didn't sell Oxford on the E36's (not to my knowledge, watch me be wrong). And most green ones came with the "meh" tan interior.



It has this many miles on it, I bought it at 146,050:



The paint job seems pretty quality on it.



Seats aren't dried out and/or torn!





After putting ~900 miles on it in about a week, I discovered a few little items that needed attention. This weekend was Round One of the Bimmerlympics. I replaced the rear shock mounts as they were busted and making a little clattering noise. Since the shocks come off to do that, and were presumably original, I replaced them with new OEM sport shocks at $35 per side. Thank you, Rock Auto.

A new head unit was priority like... 1.5. The car came with a Clarion unit that, I'm sure, was really pimpy and nice in 1997. It played muddafuckin' CDs, yo. Unfortunately, there was no auxiliary input, the CD player skipped over the smallest of bumps, and (a pet peeve) it lit up green in an otherwise amber-lit interior. So, I fixed that with a Kenwood "Digital Media Receiver" which is ├╝ber-pimpy.

And since we were doing the wiring for that, it only made sense to run wiring for my subwoofer as well.



The sub is the same 10" BassLink I've had in the E34. Still sounds good. And that 25.x MPG readout is a highway/city mix. I love that I can beat on the car and still get 20+ MPG. That never happened in the 535. It'll do an OBC-indicated 30-31 MPG all highway, too.

All 184 hp of fury right here.



Joey and I got our E36's washed yesterday, too. Dan and others will certainly rag on us for going to a touchy-feely carwash, but when you don't have the facilities to wash the car yourself, you take what you can get.



All spiffy and clean:




So, that's Green Hell. Custom plates are coming shortly and I need to source a Nurburgring sticker to put next to the rear plate (get it now?). Otherwise, the car needs a few little things (rear door lock actuator, rear deck speakers, I think that's it) and it'll be a pretty sweet DD.

Not sure if anyone on here would be interested but I've got a Taurus .44 Magnum with a 4" ported barrel. Gun is beautiful and has appx. 40 rounds through it. $475 and that price is firm. Comes in original box with original warranty card, lock, keys etc. Located in Bristol, Va.

Anyone down for a cruise tonight? It is nice out and i got the new whippppppppppppppppppppppp.

and you're not driving up 33W today, then I don't know what you're doing with your life but it's wrong.

You kids should get out there and enjoy this weather for us poor bastards stuffed in a climate controlled cubicle trying not to feel too sorry for ourselves.

That is all.

I don't care enough to spend more time searching for the answer, but I'd like to know! I see a couple videos, but not much explanation as to what happened and what the results were.

Is this correct?:
Track was wet, cars under caution, he came out of the pits with some kind of problem, tried to haul ass to catch the pack, lost control and hit the jet dryer?

How does that not result in Montoya's immediate ejection from all motorsport forever? Is it typical and ok to go hauling ass past stopped track workers or EV in this event in the name of catching the pack... the pack that is creeping around the track behind a pace car? I must be missing something. Seems like all the blurbs I see about it are just like, wow, that was a crazy accident with no-one to blame! :dunno:

March 17-18: Pre-Spring Driver Safety & Education School @ Summit Point Main Circuit.

This is an HPDE event with the Audi Club. My friend is the event organizer and they are looking for additional students (and instructors). Typically instructors will have one student!!

Cost is only $330 for 4 sessions of 30 minutes each........ a day. Great track time!

If we can get 3 students to sign up, he will pay for their Audi Club Memberships for the year!