One of my co-workers is trying to sell his 98 Accord that needs work. I think this has a lot of opportunity for a quick flip for profit, or something to drive every day if you want. If I thought I could realistically fit this into my spare time, I'd buy it to flip. Below are the details I have and I think he's pretty flexible on price. If you're interested, please get in touch with Nathan at <!-- e --><a href="mailto:jnathanyowell@gmail.com">jnathanyowell@gmail.com</a><!-- e -->.

1998 Honda Accord LX Green
4 Door
Manual Transmission
~163,000 Miles
$1500 negotiable

I bought the car in May of 2011 and I have had the following work done since then:
-Oil changed every 3100 miles
-Replaced 3 tires (Two last month)
-Replaced the windshield (Last month)
-New Radiator (summer)
-Repaired the rear suspension (summer)
-Electrics rewired/new spark plugs (summer) <-DA: I don't know that there was any re-wiring done, I think it was just new spark plug wires + maybe distributor cap & rotor
-Replaced the timing belt

Needs the following work:
-Blown head gasket

So I'm interested in getting some ideas for how to negotiate. Do you guys do it? Ive gotten some occasional deals in retail stores (like furniture, jewelry) just by asking if they will take a lower price, but Ive never really scored big, or negotiated hard.

Heres my current story:

I live in a neighborhood that never got finished. There are a pile of empty lots, and the builder hasn't been there for a while at all. the streets are there, water and sewer lines are there, curbs and sidewalks, etc, just no houses where there should be.

I do some digging around trying to get in contact with the original land owner of the while neighborhood, and find out from him "the bank owns it now." Five more phone calls later, I am talking to the president of the bank, who apparently did some weird thing..because it never got foreclosed on, it sounds like He personally holds the deeds to the land now, which consists of the no-house plots, plus some completely bare land.

He goes on a schpeel about how he isnt into developing land, and just wants to get rid of it, had a few people looking to buy acreage, etc etc. I inquire about the lot behind my house that I was hoping to buy and build a garage on. He says he'd sell individually, and when I asked how much, he throws out a full retail price. Mind you, this price was higher than the price on a lot diagonal from it that has been for sale over a year, at a lower price. So I about spit my water out, and said something about that was higher than I was thinking. He indicates he might be negotiable, knocks off 10% right there. I thanked him for his time and told him Id think on it.

I was planning on offering half of what he threw out there. Is it acceptable to just throw that out as your first offer? How do you say it without insulting the guy? There's no way I'm paying more than about 50-60% because I had some cash on hand, but not enough to buy it at full retail, nor would I even if I did have it. I also didnt want to actually spend my cash, I was hoping his bank would finance it. Is it acceptable to make the loan part of the negotiation, since, after all, his bank would make the interest? ANy thoughts? I'd love to hear some stories about you bargaining on stuff

Because of the rain Sunday, I was a little worried about my feet slipping off the pedals in my car. Would it be worth sticking some grip strip on the pedals? Or are my worries unwarranted?

What have you all done?

Good afternoon, Madison Motorsports.

NTIMan and I find ourselves in a dilemma. We'd both like to do more and higher intensity motorsports events, but we find ourselves without a suitable car.

His, because it is a vanilla peoplemover, and mine because it is a 37kUSD dollar war machine that I can't afford to wad up.

(No discussion on this point. Accept it as a given.)

Now, we've decided that what we'd ideally do is build a autocross/hippiedee car that met GRM Challenge Budget requirements. Why? So we could, theoretically, go to the challenge, of course! Whether we actually go or not is immaterial. But we need a place to start.

So we'd like for you guys to be on the lookout for an automobile with the following requirements:

#1: Must run. I don't care if it actually moves under it's own power, or if it idles like total shit, or overheats to the moon as soon as it turns over. It must start and stay running.
#2: Must be no more than 1100 dollars initial purchase price. This is a little more than half the overall ($2012) budget, and just happens to be the cash I have on hand. This is pretty much non-negotiable. If you see something someone wants for like 3k, it's just out of the question, as this is a potential GRM challenge car.
#3: Rust must be a minimum. Surface rust is fine, I guess, it'll be sanded and painted if it bothers me overmuch. BUT, if you look under the suspension and the bolts just look like little brown knobs...well, I ain't interested in cursing some 5th member bolt trackside in the rain and VIR sand. kthxbye.

There are also the following nice-to-haves:
#1: RWD. Obviously this would be more fun, but it's not a requirement.
#2: Manual trans. Again, it will eventually *have* a manual trans, but I don't suppose it needs necessarily to start with one. Still, MT preferred.
#3: Large parts availability. As cool as it would be to run, say, an E23, if major parts are not available at the local AAP warehouse, I'm not sure it's gonna be my thing.
#4: Light weight. I realize this is relative. But between a Civic Hatch and a Crown Vic, I'll take the CH. Lower consumables, less wear and tear = win. Not a requirement, but definitely nicer.

Ideal cars:
MR2 (especially Wedge)
Civic
Miata
E30 (If I must. *sigh*)
Foxbody
Volvo wagon
240SX (that hasn't been dorifto'd to hades and back)
Impulse (man, I know I said #3 but a turbo impulse would be tiiiiiiiiiiits)
80's muscle in general
B13 SE-R/NX2000 (NO B14's THEY SUCK BALLS)


I am probably dreaming, but I figure you guys are always scouring the interwebs and seeing cool shit.

Hit me up.

Kind of sounds stunnerish, but for $150 not too bad at a track that isn't too far away + new to me.

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I'm on the fence, but I'd be more inclined to go if some MM'ers are down to go as well.

The time has come to sell my 245/40/17 Hoosier A6s as I have moved on to a street tire class and will no longer need them. Built 33rd week of 2010, I purchased them in the late 2010 and did not use them until Spring of 2011. They were used for around 80 runs on a well balanced e36 BMW which has worn the tires very evenly. These have not been flipped yet, so you can run the other side to get a lot more life out of them. All four tires still show quite a bit left on the wear indicators. I have taken a picture of the lowest one for reference. I am not an expert at selling used tires, so if I missed something let me know.

Always properly stored in bags in a dry, climate controlled building. Asking $150. I will ship, if you want to pay for it. Located in Fairfax Virginia.





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wear mark, outside:

5 Toyo RA1's. 205/50r15. Should last the rest of the DE season on a light are or basically forever for autocross. I'm only selling them because I have Toyo $$$ that is going to expire.....

$200

Anyone interested in cruising out somewhere this Sunday 4/1/12 ? I'm still down for 33east to 29south towards UVA. Any takers?? Maybe drive out to Monticello or grab lunch somewhere

Switching out the tires on scooby. set of four Bridgestone potenza re92a 205/50/17 (made 2007)
not much tread left but figured i'd throw them on here in case someone wants a set to burn thru for some fun. if no interest by tues (3/27) i'll just leave them with the shop for recycling.
pick up in harrisonburg

Hopefully making the last purge of the parts from the ITR. All parts are located in VA, will ship within reason (ie. if you dont want to pay for shipping on the steering rack, dont ask).

More pics are available if need be, and prices OBO. Only trades wanted are for 949 6uls, 15*8.

1. Integra (ITR, but no diff) Steering Rack. If the mileage on my cluster is right, then 110k on it. Good for someone who is looking to rebuild a rack while still able to drive their car.

$125

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2. ITR 1" Master Cyl - Needs some grease clean up, was in working order when I pulled it.

$70 shipped

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3. ITR Rear LCA's - presumably 110k miles on the bushings. Makes for a good spare set at the track, or to press new bushings in. I'm lazy.

$50 shipped or can be package together with coil overs for less

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4. Apex'i n1 99 spec coilovers - Don't really have much info on these coilovers, they came with the car. When I pulled them off there were no visible leaks, just road grime. After a few mins of research, it seems they are 15 way adjustable, can preload the springs, etc.

I THINK the springrates are 11k/5k. And supposedly apex'i usa can still rebuild these coil overs. Come with upper pillow ball mounts, can combine with ITR rear LCA's. Priced to sell since I can't 100% vouch for them.

$450




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5. Buddy Club Front Camber Kit, DC/EG. Look to be in new condition. Pardon the body shop dust.

$125



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6. Buddy Club Rear Camber Kit, DC/EG - Basically in new condition
$75



WIll combine both B.Club Camber kits for $175 shipped.