If so lemme know. I paid the $35 to DL as much info as I can over a 72hr period. Limited to 40 docs an hour.

I started last night around 8pm, so once I finish DLing the service manuals for the Fozzy, I can let you know my log in info, and you can DL as much as you can til my subscription expires. I can typically breeze through my first 40 docs in 20 minutes, so DL speed shouldn't be a barrier.

Dumb ass me wasted my first hour and DLd 40 docs pertaining to the N/T Forester.

Even if you cant get the full manual, its a pretty good deal, $35 for 72 hours to DL the entire manual, or pay like $500 for the hardcopy.

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16x7 ASA wheels, 5x120, 35mm offest w/ 225/50R16 Kumho 4x tires. Less than 5k on them and they are in prefect shape. I paid $940 for the setup 8 months ago from Tire Rack and took them off during the winter. Decided I'd rather spend the money on the track cars then have nice wheels on my e36.

$700

After accepting a job in Roanoke, my wife and I will be moving back to our hometown in June. :thumbup: That said, after 7 long, arduous years pursuing my undergrad degree, I'll finally be getting it - so I decided to treat myself. (We also needed a second car since I'll be in Roanoke for a few weeks while she finishes teaching her 3rd graders.) I had considered a 2000-2004 Corvette, but came to the conclusion that wasn't the right choice as my first RWD vehicle. Tires and gas would be super expensive and I was afraid it would be too much power to have as a DD (and my first RWD). So, I settled on GM's now-extinct Kappa platform.

The Pontiac Solstice, Saturn Sky, and Opel GT were built on the platform in Wilmington, DE until 2009 when GM pulled the plug. I wanted a Solstice Coupe, but with only 1266 produced (just under 300 being the GXP trim with a manual), the prices are outrageous. Black on black with 41k miles in Michigan for $25k? Nope. The more I read and the more I searched, the more I liked the Sky. I finally found one in the color scheme I wanted: Forest Green with a tan top. I'm sure it isn't everyone's cup of tea, but I like that it is unique without attracting as much attention as, say, the bright yellow or red. Two tone interior matches the top and it is near-perfect condition. Car spent its whole life in Maryland averaging 9500 miles a year. There is a little rust from ocean salt, but it's in good condition for a 2008 IMO. The biggest disappointment was a hole my wife found in the passenger-side fiberglass fender where someone decided they could use a four-post lift however they wanted. Panel is busted clean through, but it's on the underside and is simply cosmetic. I'm planning to get around to it this summer - either a replacement or a patch, depending on the cost.

It is the Redline trim level, so performance wise I'm really happy - same 2.0 LNF that's in the HHR SS - the same engine I worked on during my stint in Powertrain with GM in Pontiac, MI as an engineer in the dynamometer and teardown labs. In addition, it has factory Bilstein's on all four corners, an LSD, and (of course) a 5 speed. Nice to finally have a proper suspension setup. Right now the only issue I'm having is the DI system ticking under throttle. I checked the plugs and they look good for their age, so I seafoamed the IM - it helped with a less frequent ticking at idle, but under throttle the injectors click like mad. :x Need to read into the issue a little more. Most likely, the previous owner babied the engine and/or didn't use premium gas, and carbon has coated the valves/injectors. :dunno:

A couple pics (need to whip out the DSLR after exams):

Im looking forward in hearing the details when everything gets released.

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Hello MM! Ya'll youngins won't know me, and I don't really frequent the forum but: I'm selling (tear) my 2008 350Z. I've got a baby on the way in 2 months, and well, ya can't put a carseat in the Z, and it's going to have to go. 45k miles, Grand touring, black-on-black (I wanted a batmobile), 3.5L V6, with navigation. It has been autocrossed but not tracked. New rear brake pads, good life on the front ones, new Michelin Pilot Sport A/S. It's been garaged half it's life, and most of the miles are from trips to North Carolina. I'd post pictures, but I've never been able to figure out how to do that on here, so just email me: <!-- e --><a href="mailto:whalanlk@gmail.com">whalanlk@gmail.com</a><!-- e -->. Oh, duh, asking $21k.

So I want to buy these wheels but the guy is in Minnesota. He has sold plenty of stuff on the forum so Im not worried about him being shady, but I want to make sure I cover all my bases.

Hes asking $900 + shipping, and thats a lot of money. Has anyone ever sent a large amount of money via paypal to an individual before? Did you transfer the money into your paypal account first, then send it? Or did you have an account or card attached to your paypal and have it just deducted out of the account?

I know, dont gift it. I plan on paying the paypal fees associated with the transaction to cover my butt, but is there anything else I should do or know before I send a stranger my left kidney??

Now that the Panigale is destroyed, I'm back to square one on the street bike question. I don't feel like buying another brand new 1199 at this point. I liked the bike, but there were too many little issues for me to justify doling out another big wad of currency for one. Maybe it was just first year issues, but the stalling, engine replacement, horn and turn signal malfunctions kinda killed some of my enthusiasm for the bike. If I could get a used one for around $15k maybe.

So on to the contenders

Literbike
Of these the Ape is in the lead as far as lust goes. The practical choice would be the CBR.

2013 Aprilia RSV4R (brand new out the door for $14,700)
2012 BMW S1000RR (used for about $14k)
2012 Honda CBR1000RR (brand new out the door for $11k)

RSV4R Pros
-V4 sexiness
-light
-very good handling
-been on the market a few years
-maintenance not expensive
-has abs, tc, quickshifter, and launch control

RSV4R Cons
-It's Italian. Supposedly they're reliable
-dealership is far (Lynchburg or McHenry, MD)
-poor gas mileage

S1000RR Pros
-stupid power
-top of class performance
-has abs, tc, and quickshifter

S1000RR Cons
-I've already done inline 4's
-somewhat ugly

CBR1000RR Pros
-reliable
-good handling
-good price

CBR1000RR Cons
-already had one
-doesnt have tc or abs (could maybe find a new leftover '12 with ABS tho)

Other
07-11 Triumph 675
2013 Honda CB500F or CBR500R

I was also thinking maybe I should go for something dramatically cheaper for now. There'll be a new R1 in 2014 that will supposedly be a lot more focused and less lardass than the current one so maybe that'd be up my alley. Honda is also supposed to be developing a V4 superbike but I have no idea when that would drop or how much it'd cost. Either way if I go cheaper now it'd be easier to get one in the future.

I think performance wise I could be happy with the 675. The 500 cc Hondas are interesting to me as a Honda guy, and I could do some articles on TOV about them. They're parallel twins, get great gas mileage and have available ABS. Of course there's the fact they only have about 50 hp. A brand new bike for $6500 or less would be cool but I've been riding bikes with 3 or 4 times the power for the last few years so I don't know if I'd enjoy riding one.

Hey guys,

What does it mean if one day you hop into your 2006 Honda Accord and you push the clutch and its perfectly fine. The next day you jump in and its HEAVY AS F*CK. And the next day and the next day.. like a week maybe. Its so heavy after 4 sinks your calf starts to hurt and you contemplate not driving. As if that not confusing enough the next week you go for a spin and its perfectly fine. Then the next time its SUPER DUPER LIGHT. Basically the clutch has a mind of its own right now. Regardless its fully functional no slipping, holds gears, shifts the same as day one, no sounds. So we're sort of dumbfounded :dunno: (dads car).

Hey guys, I know this is mega last minute but there will be a drift event + "Time attack" course for non drifters from 3-6 tomorrow at Shenandoah Speedway, which is only 25ish minutes away. It's $60 to drive (kinda pricey, but i'm positive there will be less than 20 drivers, so there will be a decent amount of seat time if you decide to drive. Spectating is only $2, and I'll be leaving Harrisonburg around 2:20ish for anyone that wants to go. If you guys wanna shoot me a text the number is 434-547-3400, hopefully we can get a few people to cruise up and at least hangout!

See you all at 2:20 :lol:

As usual, all projects start with very bad ideas. This is the start of mine. I was getting tired of having an automatic M3 as a daily and really wanted a manual. Unfortunately, I spent too much time in my friend's G8 GT laying down plenty of good rubber and enjoying the sweet note of a V8. Those thing go for $18k and up, and manuals are still in the ~$30k range. Darn. My friend has a LS3 E36 M3 race car, and that got me thinking.

Why not combine both?!?!

I got to looking around. Originally I wanted a 95 m3 (only came in coupe), so that I wouldn't have to worry about emissions in Northern Virginia. Well, then I stumbled upon this little guy. The seller had sold a previous car to a good friend of mine (air cooled 911, and was fanatical about maintenance and upkeep). I figured, if 2 doors are cool putting around with 400rwhp, 4 doors is even better :twisted:

So what you see below is my latest pickup. A 1998 M3 sedan with 161k miles. The condition belies the mileage. Over $2grand worth of work was recently done on it. And the single mechanical modification was a set of Ohlin shocks. :mrgreen: . Unfortunately I cannot post how much I got it for, since everything is always for sale. But let's say a steal.

The plan is to daily drive it for a little while till I get the motor built. I have decided to go right off the deep end and build a 6.0L LQ4 block with 243 heads and a medium cam paired with a T56 transmission. Should get me around ~400rwhp built properly (V8 experts help? I just want a solid 400 on pump gas and that looked like the good cheap combo). The exterior will mostly remain stock, with maybe some tint, a slight drop, wheels, and mayyyyyybe some euro lights paired with black kidneys. This will be a long process as I am taking my time on building the engine/components, but I thought I would explain why I would pick it up before questions abound on facebook.






Parts and Part #: (ongoing list)
Vorshlag Stage 0 Kit
1999 LS1 longblock
1998 LS1 Wiring Harness/Ecu/Sensors
LS6 Intake Manifold
LS6 Valley Cover GM #12577927
LS6 Plug for Valve Covers GM #12568011
Felpro Thermostat Gasket Part No 35632
ToughOne Water Pump Water Pump - New Part No T7049
Stant Thermostat, 186 Degrees Fahrenheit Part No 1429
Felpro Intake Manifold Gasket Set Part No MS 92438
Improved Racing Racing Oil Pan Baffle (EGM-200)
Tick Performance Elite Series Camshaft Package for LS1 & LS6 Engines
Camsh​aft: SNS t​orque​MAX S​tage ​2 Mil​der
Valve​sprin​g Typ​e: #SK00​1S (f​or st​ock r​ocker​ arms​)
Pushr​od Le​ngth: 7.400​" Pus​hrod ​Set
Timin​g Cha​in Up​grade​: #1258​6482 ​GM Ch​ain)
LS1 MAF Part # 25179711
Aeroquip FBM1386 - Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends
Aeroquip FBM1389 - Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends
Aeroquip FBM2608 - Aeroquip AN to Metric Adapter Fittings
Aeroquip FCG0606 - Aeroquip AQP High-Pressure Hose
Fragola Performance Systems 460614-BL - Fragola Performance Systems AN to Metric Adapter Fittings
Fragola Performance Systems 491963-BL - Fragola Performance Systems AN to Metric Adapter Fittings
Dorman 800-120 - Dorman Fuel Line Connectors
Dorman 800-121 - Dorman Fuel Line Connectors
Russell Performance 640940 - Russell Fuel Rail Fitting Adapters
Russell Performance 644123 - Russell Push-On EFI Fittings