Project 99 GSX AKA "MN3Y PIT"

[JustinG]

yea so i think im just gonna sell my car due to the controversy it has caused.....i dont want to be the cause of all this madness

[HAULN-SS]

lol, I didnt say "sandy, gravelly pavement"

Clean, average asphalt is rougher than drag street asphalt, especially around the launch area. Ask any drag racer...if they're on street tires, for example, they spin a lot more on launch on the track than they do the street

[JustinG]

take yalls shit some where else, stop fucking up my thread...... :evil:

[.RJ]

Lets back this thread up into the realm of logical, applicable discussion.

The original statement that pegs the BS-o-meter...

Dsmlink will increase your reliability, power, and also decrease your autox times by shaving 1-2 seconds at the start with the launch feature.

Now you're getting into apples and oranges here -

OMG RJ, your smart, read previous posts, I already posted up 60 foot times. And remember the 60foot drag times are with burnouts and good drag strip launch pavement. A pavement has nowhere near the traction. So, if stock tired or street tired DSMs are pulling consistent 1.6 and a good street tired fwd is pulling 2.0, thats .4 seconds difference in OPTIMAL conditions. Now lets throw in some dirt, cracked pavement, and sand (especially at verona) and lets see where this awd launch will really get a kickstart. Also the 1-2 seconds is just not in the launch but in the focus you can put in that first corner instead of worrying about launch/first corner.

You're not at the dragstrip, or on sticky tires. You're still on the same sandy, traction limited, broken pavement. So, you add a DSM link. Now what? You still have the same issues to contend with and the link isnt going to sprinkle magic traction dust on your tires. I'm not talking about a FWD car with street tires. I'm talking about taking the same car, putting the new software in, and suddenly knocking off 1-2 seconds off at the start, and thats what doesnt add up. Your typical start is going to be 60' or less, which is why I brought up looking at 60 foot times, not to introduce comparison to other cars, other tires, and so on. Your best case is gaining a few tenths off the line - and even that is generous - and making more consistent starts.



Not trying to shit up the thread here... just shedding some light as i've done a "few" autocrosses and a "few" different cars.

[Dave]

Ask any drag racer...if

"Ask any racer, any real racer..."
I couldn't help it, I had to.

To the issue at hand, I think both RJ and DJ are making good points.
1) DSMlink will allow the driver to completely focus on attacking the first turn, instead of having to slip the clutch just right, shift, etc., all the crap that goes with the launch at an autoX.
2) The computer can be set for the optimal rev ceiling to get the best traction/launch. Once this is fine-tuned, it can be repeated effortlessly time and time again.
3) DSMlink will not instantly make you shave 2 seconds off your time unless you take off from the line like it's an everyday stoplight in traffic. It does give the advantage of being easily replicated and allowing the driver to focus. For a good autoXer, you're probably looking at a 1/2-3/4 second gain there, maximum. HOWEVER, you give it to a n00b and it really might give him a few seconds, b/c you've eliminated a part which can be complex and intimidating if you aren't comfortable. Justin is in-between these two, so I would imagine he can expect to see about a second's gain, IF he really nails that first corner. If he botches it, he could actually go in too hot and could lose time :-).

I think the part really at argument here is that the DSMlink is like an instant 2-second switch. It isn't. You put it on a national-level autoXer, you'll probably be lucky to see a tenth of a second, and actually might hurt his mojo and make him slower. You give it to some of the driver's at the last event I was at, you might see a 10 second gain :-). However, if you give it to that n00b and let him keep driving, he'll adapt. If you let him drive 4 events and take it away, it won't hurt him that much. He'll have learned the techniques necessary and won't need DSMlink to be launch master.

Justin, both will be good additions. The sway bars will totally change the demeanor of the car, but shouldn't really make it uncomfortable to drive every day. You will probably benefit from DSMlink too, however I think the biggest benefit to be had there is that it has the potential to make it more reliable and easier to problem-solve.

[Gs dewd]

I'd say sway bars. Get the car to handle good before trying to milk out the extra horsepower you'll get with running link. As long as your tune is good and you are not having any issues link can wait for a little while. How much more hp do you think your going to be able to gain with using link for tuning over what you have now? And is it worth the $600 investment at this time?

[SStratman]

Haha I have no expertise in these cars, but +1 for sway bars!

Also kudos on your car looking very sharp the other day when i passed you going opposite direction!
and got to see it a few times lately since I've been in your neighborhood visiting and for some reason the 2 visitor spots on the bottom lot are always taken so I always end up parking practically right in front of ya when I'm over there

Hopefully when I get some money to spend on my ride, swaybars is high up on my list of mods to do soon on my Impala SS, because after all my car has 150k miles and I believe entire suspension is stock, so shocks especially have got to go!
Probably gonna go with Bilsteins, Vogtland springs first and then some Spohn swaybars along with UMI rear control arms

Not to jack thread but anyone have suggestion of where to get my car inspected??? (I am due for it this month and never have had it done here)

[JustinG]

hey man thanks for the compliments, keep in touch on the forum, and sorry i have no clue on suspension for the SS

[JustinG]

ok, replaced the inner and outer tie rods yesterday. I have a question though, when i pulled the boot off that covers the inner tie rod and the piston coming out of the steering rack i noticed a bit of lubrication. I just wanted to be sure this was normal and i didn't have a seal or something gone bad within my steering. The lubricant seemed equal on both sides and im thinking its normal or simple grease thats been broken down overtime from the worn tie rods. Opinions are welcome.

[D_Eclipse9916]

Completely fine, thats normal, just make sure to put straps back on the boot so no dirt gets in there.

[JustinG]

done....just wanted to be sure, also i was so bored today i made a Wret cold air box and ram air intake.....dropped my temps by 10-15 degrees. Pics to come.

[JustinG]

opinions on Corbeau A4s, so far only thing ive heard is the fabric fades. I may be able to get a set for 300, and then sell my stockers for $3-350.

looking for a comfy seat for DD and autoX, ill go fixed back when i track the car.

anyone??

[jongp3]

uh 300 is hella cheap isn't it? i'd buy them for the good deal if you don't like them resell for same price or more

[Andy]

opinions on Corbeau A4s, so far only thing ive heard is the fabric fades. I may be able to get a set for 300, and then sell my stockers for $3-350.

looking for a comfy seat for DD and autoX, ill go fixed back when i track the car.

anyone??

What is the advantage of the A4's over your stockers? I thought your seats were pretty supportive as it is.

[JustinG]

not really supportive at all, and leather. during an autoX im sliding around in the seat.

[Andy]

not really supportive at all, and leather. during an autoX im sliding around in the seat.

That's more of a function of your seatbelt than your seats. Some Scroth 4 points or a CG lock would probably fix that up.

[JustinG]

thats gonna happen to gonna pick up the schroth Rallye cross harnesses

[Goodspeed]

Racing seats FTW....functional, and form wise they look great

That's more of a function of your seatbelt than your seats. Some Scroth 4 points or a CG lock would probably fix that up.

I have read that 4 points are the "least" safe harnesses out there...true? I know a lot of it has to do w/ the mounting (mounting point being higher than your shoulders so as not to compress your spine etc etc)

Also, OT but are harnesses installed with a harness bar (Sparco) and not a cage or roll bar safe? Seeing the harness bars attached horizontally behind the seats, it just looks like something that could break and render the harnesses useless in a crash/rollover

[JustinG]

if your tracking the car you should have atleast a 5 point, but since im mostly gonna be doing autoX for right now im going with the smaller 2in 4 point. these are perfectly safe to use without a harness bar when mounted correctly, using the mounting points for the rear seatbelts. once i decide to track the car im gonna go to a 3in 5-6 point.

[Nis01]

Get the harnesses... see if they improve your stability enough that you don't need new seats and go from there. :dunno: