01-02-2006, 03:29 PM
Well, I did finally get it re-titled, and I'm going to get tags tomorrow. When I went to install the new coolant temperature sensor I didn't bother to look at the old one, and so I didn't notice that the threads on the new one were waaaaaay shorter, so I assume that the reason my new one leaks is that the housing stripped out somehow. So I return the sensor I just bought (isn't working at an auto parts store beautiful?) and buy a new housing AND sensor for 5 dollars shipped.
Then I notice this funky knock/rattle/noise. It's quiet at idle, but starts a really deep rattle at about 1500 rpm's. I knew it wasn't bearings (I know what they sound like) so I thought my crank pulley was seperating. I buy a new (used) one in preparation for changing it. Today, I go out there, and tug on the pulley, and it moves a little. "Eureka!" I say to myself. About 30 minutes work and she's off and (I recall later) the crank pulley bolts were strangely easy to remove. But the crank pulley is good! Looks brand new, in fact. So I shrug, put some lok-tite on the four bolts, reinstall it, torque the bolts to P.F.T. (somewhere around "NRRGGHH!!") re-tension the belts, and voila! No noise. Sounds like a healthy, raucous, rip-snortin' 4G63 to me. With trademark lifter tick. I'm thinking maybe the crank bolts weren't tight, or had come loose, because the pulley looked almost new. That would explain the noise anyway.
All of the tension adjustment bolts were in such weird-ass places that I don't know how I could have done it without my ratcheting wrenches. Seriously, that's why I hate FWD. All of the accessories are catywompus.
I also bought new ball joints and tie-rod ends, as my boots are torn, but everything seems tight so I'm not going to install them just yet. Haynes (and the FSM) say that the LCA's ball joints are not rebuildable....but then why is there a snap ring holding the ball joint in? Tell me THAT, Mitsubishi! I will put new ball joints in and there's nothing you can do to stop me!!!
In other news, the new Foo Fighters CD was also in the CD player. Free CD!
Anyway, we'll get her on the road and see how long I can stand the tiny turbo. It's really not that bad. Anyone who's ever driven a 1.8t VW knows how they don't feel like a turbo motor, just like a much larger motor than it actually is...that's how this feels. The 3" DP makes it spool soooooooo fast it feels like just a really big motor. There's no lag at all. It's hit the go-pedal and go, no waiting. But we'll see exactly how much this turbo can take. I still also have to purchase Symborski bushings (I'm gonna drive out to MachV and pick them up...no way I'm paying tax AND S&H when I can just go get them) and install my "roller skate" bearings into my shift cables. Then we'll see about building an honest-to-God 3" exhaust, and installing a 3" high-flow cat, because this 3"-2"-2" exhaust can't flow very well, and its continued existence offends me.
Then I notice this funky knock/rattle/noise. It's quiet at idle, but starts a really deep rattle at about 1500 rpm's. I knew it wasn't bearings (I know what they sound like) so I thought my crank pulley was seperating. I buy a new (used) one in preparation for changing it. Today, I go out there, and tug on the pulley, and it moves a little. "Eureka!" I say to myself. About 30 minutes work and she's off and (I recall later) the crank pulley bolts were strangely easy to remove. But the crank pulley is good! Looks brand new, in fact. So I shrug, put some lok-tite on the four bolts, reinstall it, torque the bolts to P.F.T. (somewhere around "NRRGGHH!!") re-tension the belts, and voila! No noise. Sounds like a healthy, raucous, rip-snortin' 4G63 to me. With trademark lifter tick. I'm thinking maybe the crank bolts weren't tight, or had come loose, because the pulley looked almost new. That would explain the noise anyway.
All of the tension adjustment bolts were in such weird-ass places that I don't know how I could have done it without my ratcheting wrenches. Seriously, that's why I hate FWD. All of the accessories are catywompus.
I also bought new ball joints and tie-rod ends, as my boots are torn, but everything seems tight so I'm not going to install them just yet. Haynes (and the FSM) say that the LCA's ball joints are not rebuildable....but then why is there a snap ring holding the ball joint in? Tell me THAT, Mitsubishi! I will put new ball joints in and there's nothing you can do to stop me!!!
In other news, the new Foo Fighters CD was also in the CD player. Free CD!
Anyway, we'll get her on the road and see how long I can stand the tiny turbo. It's really not that bad. Anyone who's ever driven a 1.8t VW knows how they don't feel like a turbo motor, just like a much larger motor than it actually is...that's how this feels. The 3" DP makes it spool soooooooo fast it feels like just a really big motor. There's no lag at all. It's hit the go-pedal and go, no waiting. But we'll see exactly how much this turbo can take. I still also have to purchase Symborski bushings (I'm gonna drive out to MachV and pick them up...no way I'm paying tax AND S&H when I can just go get them) and install my "roller skate" bearings into my shift cables. Then we'll see about building an honest-to-God 3" exhaust, and installing a 3" high-flow cat, because this 3"-2"-2" exhaust can't flow very well, and its continued existence offends me.
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442