<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0912656468/qid=1136493665/sr=8-1/ref=pd_bbs_1/002-6317597-7016061?n=507846&s=books&v=glance">http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/091265 ... s&v=glance</a><!-- m -->

Got this for Christmas... Went to put it on my bookshelf and found I already had it. ROFL! I' so far behind on reading. Brand spanking new, $10 firm.

MM World,

I have a $500.00 gift certificate to Crutchfield that was the result of a joint effort for a client of ours. As much fun as it would be to spend it, I'd rather have the money for other stuff. I was going to put it on eBay, but decided that I'd post it here first.

$400 gets it. That's $100 in your pocket no matter the sale you find at the store.

Pete

Just a pet peeve but I think it is a hour off, and I would appreciate if it was fixed.

BTCC is gonna be on Speed tonight at midnight (and every Wednesday). Tune in fools! 8)

I've got a question about leaving an engine exposed for a longer period of time. I'm planning on using the oil pan from our parts car for my car, which would mean leaving the engine without much oil. We're not sure how soon we can remove the engine, so it could sit outside for a while (car is covered but still exposed to changing temps, etc.)

would this pose a problem if we wanted to sell or use the engine later on?

also, as far as towing the car away once its stripped of what we need- there isn't any easy way to move the car once the suspension and wheels are off is there? I'm planning on just leaving the suspension and putting on a set of wheels, having the car towed away (or move myself) and then taking the wheels off once its at the junkyard.

So I go to get a state inspection the other day and the guy rejects it because the driver side window won't open. To make matters worse the douche bag leaves my other working window open....IN THE RAIN!....AHHH!!....Anyways, back to the matter at hand. This really burns me because not too long ago i replaced the driver's side window switch for like $200, now the motor fails on me. I remember talking to a guy way back telling me the motor and regulator are a single assembly and would run for about $700!!!! I accept that this car is dying, so I am not willing to spend $700 on a window for a car who's transmission might die any day now. I did find an internet sight that listed it for like $55 Cheap motor site That sounds a little too good to be true, not sure if I trust it. Even if it is legit, I was told this type of installation is not something to do without some specific knowledge. Does anyone know someone, either a shop or person, that could help me take care of this. Or, I guess another solution would be to find a guy who will pass the inspection no questions, which would be GREAT! Anyone got any suggestions? I only got like a week. Oh, btw its a 1996 Buick Riviera SuperCharged THANKS!

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3214 is my highest

Just thought I'd share some pics I dug up here at home...hope you enjoy...I know the pics are huge but I can't seem to resize themhock:

Singapore Autoshow 2004









Tomei R34 with their RB26 crate engine...worth more than a nice condo


VeilSide R34 on the streets of Singapore




R34 on the highway in Osaka, Japan

Well, we're selling our goat-truck.

Specs:
2.5 Liter (I think, maybe 2.2) 4 Cylinder, mopar Common Block
5 speed manual transmission (Shifts good!)
A little surface rust, but nothing major.
Good tires, current inspection.

The bad:
For the first heat cycle, the truck will get hot, then cool down to operating temperature, then stay there.
There is a crack in the windshield out of the driver's viewing area (upper left corner) I don't know if this will pass inspection or not.

The reason we're selling is because Julie and I got an F-150 (see sig) and well, dad doesn't need a little dakota anymore. A turbo MOPAR motor will drop into this truck, just ask Jeff about how to do it. Comes with a Haynes manual. $550 to MM'ers, would make a great little runabout truck, and it's 50 bucks more than we paid, which should cover all the stuff we had to put on it to get it to pass inspection and the haynes manual.

TY.

ok, since we'll likely be moving back to VA in a few months, I'd like to not have to trip over this car for a while. Some of you saw it at Evan's place last year when I bought it, I will not charge extra for the custom cane dents on the hood. :wink: I don't really expect any of you to be interested, but I figured I'd put it up here.

It's the one in the foreground:



The good:
Drove it back from MD, survived as a daily driver for 6 mo
Compression test recently done-- 150, 150, 140, 160
Changed oil now and then, changed about half the coolant
NewER fuel filter, alternator, oil pump, belts
Runs pretty good over 3.5k RPMs
Almost all of the gauges work! In fact, so do locks and other such things
No odd vibrations, brakes, steering, all decent
It's driveable. I still drive it to work sometimes and could drive it to VA
Has a decent set of sport seats in it that I pulled from my track car

The bad:
Runs poorly until warmed up
Runs poorly under 3.5k RPMs with anything over half throttle
Temp gauge crapped out
Suspension pretty tired
Burns/leaks some oil
240k some miles (odo works, I'm just too lazy to go look)
A bit rusty underneath to make a great track car, but not horrible

I THINK the running problems are due to either the low fuel pressure, the sloppy distributor's somewhat randomly dynamic timing, or both. All cyls are firing, and it actually runs in closed loop (02 sensor works), but it doesn't pass emissions.

$500, interesting or lower offers considered